1940s: The “New Look” 

Between 1930 and the end of World War II, hemline trends resembled a rollercoaster. After the shorter hems of the 1920s, most dress and skirt lengths plummeted back down to midcalf or the ankle during the Great Depression in the 1930s. They stayed that way until the onset of World War II, when fashion, like much of the rest of life, became dictated by rations and utility. Hemlines raised up to knee length; this look, seen on the A-line skirts worn by women in the military, not only preserved fabric, but also was practical for movement and comfort on the job, a necessity given that more women than ever were joining the workforce. 

After the war, another dramatic hemline reversal happened. The introduction of designer Christian Dior’s “New Look” in 1947 brought back the long, voluminous skirts of an earlier era, with hemlines falling back to midcalf or even to the ankle. The luxurious look may have been a rejection of wartime austerity, but many also saw it as a step back toward traditional gender roles. The longer hemlines, as well as the New Look’s signature hourglass silhouette, stood in stark contrast to the more utilitarian styles of the war years. A backlash ensued, with protests happening in the U.S. and abroad. “Mr. Dior, we abhor dresses to the floor,” a sign at one American demonstration read. It wasn’t long before these progressive protesters were wearing their shortest skirts yet.

1960s: Miniskirt Revolution 

After the conservative styles of the 1950s, the rebellious spirit of the ’60s ushered in radical shifts in fashion, including one of the most dramatic hemline changes in history: For the first time in American fashion, skirts rose to several inches above the knee. Miniskirts were worn by style icons such as the model Twiggy and embraced by the youth culture, which was booming like never before. In 1960, almost half the population of the U.S. was under the age of 18, while in the U.K., the burgeoning “Swinging London” scene emphasized everything youthful and modern. By the middle of the ’60s, the miniskirt was the quintessential wardrobe item for young women — both a novel trend and a powerful cultural symbol of liberation and defiance. While British designer Mary Quant is often given credit for the style — and she indeed popularized it — she always credited the youthful London street style of the time, insisting, “It was the girls in the street who did it.” 

1970s: Maxi Skirt Revival 

What goes up must come down again, and as the miniskirt’s dominance of ’60s fashion fizzled, an opposing trend also driven by the surging youth culture began to emerge. More and more young people began to vocalize their rejection of mainstream societal establishments and instead embraced the ideals of peace and love. They were known as hippies, and their wardrobe of choice — in addition to the burgeoning bell-bottom pants that became synonymous with the ’70s — included flowing, long-sleeved maxi dresses and skirts. Hemlines were once again at the ground, but this time it wasn’t an embodiment of buttoned-up conservatism; the maxi length reflected a laid-back, bohemian style that characterized the era. The midi skirt also attempted a comeback in the 1970s, but didn’t quite catch on — at least, not yet.

1980s: Power Dressing and Princess Di

In the 1980s, hemlines fluctuated once again — this time, trending back upward. The maxi hem of the ’70s was out, and the midi length came back as part of the broader “power dressing” phenomenon. The look — sleek, suit-inspired, and with a midcalf hem — was largely influenced by Princess Diana; the young royal captivated the public with her singular style throughout the ’80s and ’90s. More women were also entering the corporate world, and the fashion reflected growing female professionalism and authority. As the decade pressed on, hemlines crept up further still. Miniskirts also reappeared in the ’80s, often in patchy acid-washed denim or the colorful, ruffled, flouncy “rah-rah” style. 

Other popular looks have come and gone since then — the midi asymmetrical handkerchief hem of the early 2000s, for one — but the rise of fast fashion, individualism over collective style, and the increasingly rapid turnover of trends mean the ’80s may well have marked the end of a single hemline trend defining an entire decade.

One Etiquette Book Suggested Using Bird Dung To Cure Baldness

In a passage in his 17th-century book The Path-Way to Health, British author Peter Levens suggested that chicken droppings could be used to cure baldness. He wrote, “Take the ashes of Culver-dung in Lye, and wash the head therewith” — the term “Culver-dung” referring in this case to bird poop, likely that of a pigeon or dove. This was one of several questionable theories to promote hair growth that Levens proposed in his book, and by far the most unpleasant.

Levens also suggested several solutions for removing hair, and yes, they also required animal droppings. He wrote, “Take hard Cats dung, dry it and beat it to powder, and temper it with strong Vinegar, then wash the place with the same, where you would have no haire to grow.” Today, the idea of mixing cat poop and vinegar together sounds like one of the most unpleasant odors imaginable, and indeed it’s unclear how many contemporary readers, if any, actually tested Levens’ solution.

People Used “Ear Pickers” To Clean Ears, Fingers, and Teeth

Q-tips weren’t invented until 1923, but earwax was always a major grooming issue. One of the best solutions for tackling clogged ears was the use of “ear pickers” — an ornate, handheld tool that was common throughout Europe and the American colonies during the 16th and 17th centuries. The device was often made of a precious material such as gold, silver, or ivory, and was worn around the neck on a chain as a status symbol. 

One end of a traditional ear picker was formed into a scoop shape that could be used to pry wax out of the ear canal. Doctors often advised people to remove earwax, which at the time was thought to cause deafness. The other end of a standard ear picker was pointed, and often used to dislodge food from teeth or clean dirt out from under the fingernails. 

Wigs Were Styled Using Animal Fat

Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, wigs were considered fashionable for both men and women. Many men used the hairpieces to hide premature balding, which was increasingly common in Western society at the time due to untreated cases of syphilis. These wigs were usually made from real human hair and then slathered with a pomade made of animal fat to style them and maintain their shape, and they were worn so often that they quickly became pretty disgusting.

Not only did the rancid animal fat cause wigs to stink to high heaven, but they also became breeding grounds for fleas and lice. The wigs were delicate and quite difficult to wash, so many wig-wearers simply persevered through the unpleasantness caused by odors or creatures. But the hazards didn’t end there; the animal fat also made wigs highly combustible, putting the wearer at serious risk if they stood near a candle or other open flame. 

Milk Baths Were Popular With Aristocrats

Milk baths were once a popular practice among elite members of society, to keep their skin looking soft and wrinkle-free. One popular legend claims that Cleopatra frequently bathed in sour donkey milk as part of her daily beauty ritual, though the veracity of this claim has long been debated. According to historian Adrian Goldsworthy, that story is likely a myth, and it was actually Poppaea, the wife of Roman Emperor Nero, who helped popularize the practice of bathing in milk. Centuries later, Queen Catherine Parr of England (the sixth and last wife of Henry VIII) was also known to take milk baths, which she enjoyed with “perfumes and scented oils,” according to historian Susan E. James. It’s also said that Queen Elizabeth I bathed in milk to maintain a pale complexion.

Indeed, paleness was such a popular beauty standard in the Western world that women even applied arsenic powder to whiten their faces and hair. This trend was made common in Europe during the 19th century, as doctors promoted “complexion wafers” made of arsenic — a toxic element believed to be harmless at the time — to achieve a fair skin tone, which was associated with the upper-class privilege of not working outdoors.

Like in France, wigs were a distinctive part of the English royal court in the mid-1600s, and quickly became fashionable in English society. While lower-quality wigs made of horse or goat hair trickled down to the merchant class, wigs made of human hair still primarily symbolized wealth, status, and professionalism. From about 1700 onward, it was common for wigs to be powdered. This was primarily for hygienic reasons: The powder, usually made from corn flour or bean flour, helped absorb oils and odors. The white powder was also believed to give the wigs a distinguished look.

Though they started as a fashion trend, wigs came to be a fixture of the legal profession in England. Judges and lawyers began wearing them to distinguish themselves from the general population and to convey a sense of authority, anonymity, and impartiality. 

At that time, the American colonies were still under British rule, and as English customs and legal traditions made their way across the Atlantic in the first half of the 18th century, so did the practice of wearing wigs. Throughout the 1700s, American judges and lawyers adopted the trend, though in a more subdued style than the French and British. Wigs were also worn by members of the political elite, including prominent Founding Fathers such as John Adams and James Madison. 

By the time of the American Revolution — and after the United States gained independence from England — wigs had waned in popularity for men in both Europe and in the U.S. While early paintings of America’s Founding Fathers depict many of the men with styled white hair, by this time, wigs were largely replaced by powder and pomade. This hairstyle conveyed the same stately status that wigs had long signified, while allowing the fledgling nation to break with English traditions.

When the first session of the U.S. Supreme Court convened in 1790, wigs, while waning in popularity for the general public, were still part of courtroom dress, and Justice William Cushing arrived at the court wearing the white wig he had worn in Massachusetts. Thomas Jefferson, who is believed to have worn hairpieces for a short time in the mid-1700s, was ready to move on, telling Cushing, “For heaven’s sake, discard the monstrous wig which makes the English judges look like rats peeping through bunches of oakum.” 

By the early 19th century, the majority of men in Europe and America had stopped wearing wigs, but the tradition persisted in England, where wigs are still seen in courtrooms today. In 2007, the U.K. decided that barristers no longer needed to wear wigs in civil and family law courts. The U.K. Supreme Court followed suit, except in criminal trials and certain ceremonial events, where, to this day, a wig is still required for judges and lawyers. 

Yet even without the requirements in general trials, wigs are still commonplace in many English courtrooms, and the tradition was long-lived in some former British colonies as well. Canada phased out wigs throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, and Ireland and Jamaica didn’t stop the practice until 2011. In Australia, bench wigs and the more formal full-bottomed wigs persist today. In Africa, countries such as Ghana, Zimbabwe, and Kenya still use the headgear in courtrooms despite discussions about its relevance and appropriateness in postcolonial times — not to mention just how hot the additional hair is in warm climates.

Wide-Leg Pants Were Safer and More Practical

In 1817, the secretary of the U.S. Navy issued regulations stating that sailors washing the decks of the ship should be barefoot and have their pants rolled up. The flared legs of bell-bottom trousers made rolling them up easier compared to pants with narrower legs. Historic photographs from the early 20th century reflect how this tradition endured, clearly showing creases where the sailors’ wide-legged pants had been rolled. But while naval folklore is filled with stories and speculation, there is no definitive answer for why bell-bottoms remained the sailors’ uniform. One theory is that bell-bottom dungarees were a practical choice for the naval environment due to their durability and ease of wearing. The flared legs also provided better mobility, which was essential on a ship with confined spaces and many ladders.

There’s also a widely held belief that bell-bottoms remained popular because of their potential use as a life preserver. Anyone who has ever fallen into a pool or lake while fully dressed knows how quickly wet clothes can become a burden. For a sailor swept overboard, heavy clothing wasn’t just an inconvenience, it was a dangerous liability. The extra fabric on bell-bottom pants made it easier to catch hold of a sailor who went overboard and, once overboard, a sailor could take off their pants without removing their shoes (which they would need if they made it to the shoreline). There are also stories of sailors being taught in boot camp how to knot the wide pant legs of their bell-bottoms and inflate them with air, turning them into a flotation device, but there’s no known evidence that the pants were ever used this way.

The “Monkey Suit” Became a Navy Tradition

We may never know exactly how or why bell-bottom pants became the enduring uniform for sailors, but they remain a tangible link to a bygone seafaring era. Over the years, the U.S. Navy has made minor modifications to the uniform, but it has remained virtually unchanged for two centuries. Despite efforts to balance tradition and practicality, attempts to change the classic look have typically been met with resistance. 

In 1971, the Navy decided to phase out the traditional uniform worn by enlisted sailors, which included bell-bottom dungarees, in favor of straight trousers worn by officers and chief petty officers. It took four years to fully implement the change, and many sailors were not happy about losing the uniform that they fondly referred to as a “monkey suit.” In a 1971 interview with The New York Times, Navy sailor Henry Knapp aptly called the look a “tradition and trademark.” Sailors also complained that the officer-style uniforms were difficult to keep clean and took up too much space in their shipboard storage. In 1977, the chief of naval operations decided to reverse the previous guideline and reauthorized the traditional uniform for the four lowest enlisted ranks.

In 1999, the Navy once again began phasing out the bell-bottom dungarees in favor of straight-legged pants, despite sailors’ complaints that the change would result in a loss of their distinctive look. Steeped in nautical nostalgia, bell-bottoms were a symbol of pride, and their flared legs created a unique silhouette that set sailors apart from other branches of the U.S. military. Bell-bottoms may never again be a mandatory item in a sailor’s sea bag, but this iconic piece of clothing will always have a place in naval history. 

The Grecian Gown

From the blue velvet Dior gown that Jennifer Lawrence wore to the 2024 Golden Globes, to delicate satin, organza, and lace Grecian-inspired wedding gowns, this elegant dress style has been reinterpreted over the years, but it never goes out of fashion for long. The toga-like gown is inspired by classic Greek statues, but making clothing out of a single piece of draped fabric dates even further back, to the ancient civilizations of Mesopotamia and Egypt.

The classic Grecian gown is a single piece of gathered fabric cinched at the waist with bindings or ties. Today’s versions are more complex and detailed, but they still reflect the timeless beauty associated with the Greek goddesses. The Grecian gown has enjoyed popularity at various points over the centuries. Variations to the style adjusted the hemline, waistline, and neckline to alter the silhouette, while still invoking the classic design.

The Bomber Jacket

Another piece of outerwear that has its roots in World War I, the bomber jacket — or flight jacket, as it was originally known — was designed by the U.S. Army’s Aviation Clothing Board. The original heavy-duty A-2 leather flight jacket was brown or black leather with a zip front, snug cuffs and waists, and a high, wraparound collar. Later incarnations included the G-1 flight jacket worn in World War II, which had a fur-lined collar and patches, and the MA-1, a lighter, jet-age version with a nylon shell and polyester lining.

Despite their military origins, bomber jackets have enjoyed bursts of popularity among civilian populations over the years, thanks in part to films such as Rebel Without a Cause, Top Gun, and Drive, as well as the hip-hop movement of the late 1990s and early 2000s. More recently, Harper’s Bazaar declared the oversized leather bomber jacket one of the hottest new trends in women’s outerwear.

The Bucket Hat

The bucket hat — so called because it resembles an inverted bucket — may not seem like it has much fashion significance, but stylists say this humble headgear makes a big style statement. Dating back to the early 20th century, the hat design was popular with Irish fishermen and farmers — in fact, it’s also known as a fishing hat or fisherman’s hat, which you might have guessed if you’ve ever watched Gilligan’s Island. Back then, the hats were made of wool or tweed cloth and the lanolin in the raw wool made them water-resistant. They were durable hats for outdoor use, and their practicality appealed to militaries around the world, including the U.S. Army and Navy, which found them useful for sun protection, as well as in the rain.

Despite its modest, unadorned origins, the bucket hat has found widespread popularity in recent years as a must-have fashion accessory, spotted on celebrities such as Rihanna, Brad Pitt, Kate Hudson, and Missy Elliott. From casual canvas designs for beachgoers to designer hats by Prada, Gucci, and Dior in fabrics such as nylon, denim, tweed, shearling, and satin, the bucket hat has come a long way from its working-class Irish roots.

The Cape

Dating back to medieval Europe, the cape was a popular sleeveless outer garment for men and women for centuries. Simply styled capes and cloaks (a cloak is generally full-length while a cape is shorter) were designed to fasten at the neck and cover the shoulders, protecting the wearer from the elements. Capes found their way into high-end fashion in Victorian-era England, featuring lace and trim embellishments and worn over full-skirted ball gowns. In the 1920s and ’30s, designers paired capes in luxury fabrics with equally exquisite evening gowns for a modern take on Old World glamour. Fashion houses such as Dior, Balenciaga, and Givenchy continued to embrace the stylish cape into the 1960s, and their designs were showcased by Hollywood stars such as Vivien Leigh, Marilyn Monroe, and Audrey Hepburn.

As contemporary designers embrace the quiet luxury trend, the stylish cape is once again commanding attention on red carpets and runways, and finding new fans. For a generation who wasn’t even alive during the cape’s last fashion reign, the throwback garment now offers a fresh look that is as comfortable and cozy as it is chic.