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Why Did People Wear Ruff Collars in Elizabethan Times?
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AuthorNicole Villeneuve
October 24, 2024
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The ruff collar is one of the most recognizable symbols of Elizabethan fashion. Picture Queen Elizabeth I, her head surrounded by a crisp, fanlike collar, or William Shakespeare, the most famous author of the time, whose own likeness and theatrical productions depict the prominent garment. Though the collar began as a modest ruffle on a shirt, it went on to become an elaborate piece of its own. In 16th-century England, it would have been hard to miss the sight of these towering, fluted sculptures circling the faces of the English elite. But why did people wear these stiff, awkward garments?
Like many sartorial choices of the time, ruff collars signified more than just taste; they were statements of status, wealth, and power. In the first half of the 1500s, English men exposed just a hint of a collar of their shirt, ruffled up from underneath their doublets. By the mid-1500s, however, Spanish fashion began to infiltrate England, and the exaggerated collar worn by Spain’s aristocracy was adopted by the English as well.
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Elizabethan society was highly hierarchical, and fashion was a way for people to visibly demonstrate their rank. The larger and more elaborate the ruff, the more important and wealthy the wearer. One of the ruff’s most famous proponents was Queen Elizabeth I, who, after taking the throne in 1558, used her striking appearance to symbolize her authority. Her ornate, structured gowns and imposing ruff collars influenced the looks not only of her courtiers, but of the whole country: All classes and ages adopted versions of the ruff collar. The queen wanted to ensure that one’s look didn’t outrank their status, however, so she enforced the sumptuary laws previously put in place by her father, Henry VIII. These laws restricted the most luxurious clothing to the upper classes, making the truly showy ruffs the domain of the rich.
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Ruffs grew in size and complexity as the century progressed, aided by the use of starch starting around the mid-1560s. By about 1570, the ruff was its own accessory, an entirely separate and detachable collar that was secured to the wearer’s clothing primarily with pins. Though early collars were made of linen, by then, they were also made with lace and could feature embroidered or bejeweled detailing. The collars were often starched in a variety of colors, with blue, green, and yellow being favorites. (Queen Elizabeth did, however, ban blue ruffs in 1595.)
An average ruff, if there was such a thing, required anywhere from 15 feet to 20 feet of fabric to make. By the 1580s, the collars had become wide, sculptural pieces; some of the more extravagant pieces, such as cartwheel ruffs, extended dramatically horizontally from the neck and were so cumbersome that they needed wire frameworks to keep them in place — and in one piece. Despite their starched rigidity, ruffs were ultimately quite delicate and difficult to maintain. While working-class citizens also wore ruffs, they couldn’t always comfortably accommodate them in their day-to-day life, nor could they afford the time and materials needed to take proper care of them, further relegating the accessory to the upper class.
By the early 1600s, women had started wearing open ruffs, displaying their décolletage. Their collars stood upright more than out, a face-framing take on the trend influenced by French Queen Marie de’ Medici — and one that came up against the growing Puritan movement in England. Prominent figures in the movement, such as Philip Stubbes, condemned ruffs as symbols of vanity and excess. Nonetheless, ruff collars persisted throughout the early 17th century, until the falling band collar — another French style — took its place. By the mid-1600s, the falling band collar, with its relaxed drape over the shoulders, marked the shift away from the excessive formality of the Elizabethan era.
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5 Facts About Samhain, the Celtic Festival That Inspired Halloween
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AuthorKristina Wright
October 16, 2024
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Samhain, the ancient Celtic festival that inspired many of our modern-day Halloween traditions, represents the end of the harvest season and the onset of winter. An Irish Gaelic word that’s also used in Scottish Gaelic and Manx, “Samhain” translates to “summer’s end” and is pronounced “sow-in” (rhyming with “cow-in”). Traditionally celebrated on November 1, it marked the time when the harvest had been gathered and stored, cattle were moved to closer pastures, livestock were secured for the winter, and communities were hunkering down for the long, cold months ahead.
Samhain was also believed to be a time when the spirits of those who had died during the year traveled to the otherworld. People believed that during Samhain, the boundary between the living and the dead was at its thinnest, allowing the spirit world to interact with the human world. To protect themselves from restless or malevolent spirits, people would light fires, leave offerings for deceased loved ones, and wear disguises.
Today, much of what we know about Samhain is rooted in Irish mythology, making it difficult to discern truth from lore. But here are five things we do know about this ancient and mysterious holiday.
Observed by the ancient Celts across Ireland, Scotland, and the Isle of Man, Samhain dates back to the Iron Age, more than 2,000 years ago. The Celts divided the year into two halves, Samhain (the darkness) and Beltane (the light). Those two halves were further divided by Imbolc (a holiday marking the beginning of the spring season) and Lughnasadh (marking the beginning of the harvest season). These four cross-quarter days, as they were known, were celebrated with fire festivals and were among the eight sacred days in ancient Celtic tradition, along with the spring and fall equinoxes and summer and winter solstices, known as quarter days.
Some historians believe that Samhain, which fell on the day that corresponds to November 1 on the contemporary calendar, marked the beginning of the Celtic new year, while others argue there isn’t enough evidence to support that hypothesis. What we do know for certain is that elements of Samhain influenced the celebration of Halloween as we know it.
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Irish immigrants brought the traditions of Samhain to the United States in the 1800s, but the name “Halloween” traces back to influences of early Christianity as the church sought to incorporate pagan traditions into a Christian narrative in order to woo converts. In the eighth century, Pope Gregory III designated November 1 as All Saints’ Day to honor Christian martyrs and saints. By the 10th century, November 2 was recognized as All Souls’ Day, a time to remember the souls of the dead.
Over time, All Saints’ Day became known as All Hallows’ Day, and the evening before, called All Hallows’ Eve, eventually morphed into Halloween. Celebrated on the night of October 31, Halloween isn’t the same thing as Samhain, but the Celtic holiday inspired several traditions of our modern-day Halloween, including carving vegetables, dressing in costumes, and visiting homes to receive treats.
Marking the midpoint between the fall equinox and winter solstice, Samhain was the most important of the four fire festivals, coming as it did at the end of the harvest and the beginning of the colder, darker days ahead. The festival was observed over several days as a means of celebrating the harvest, appeasing the gods, honoring the dead, and warding off spirits.
Conflicting sources say that people’s hearth fires would either burn out from being left unattended during the gathering of the harvest or were deliberately extinguished at the start of the Samhain festival. In either case, after the harvest had been gathered, a large communal fire was lit by Celtic priests, known as druids. Sacrifices of crops and animals were made, and the animal bones were then tossed into the “bone-fire,” which is where we get the word “bonfire.” Celebrants would light torches from the bonfire to take back to their homes in order to relight their own hearth fires.
The Celts believed that Samhain was a time when the spirits of the dead could walk the world of the living, and that this temporary “thinning of the veil” between life and death meant it was possible to communicate with the deceased. A tradition known as a “dumb supper” involved setting a place at the head of the table to invite deceased ancestors to visit. The meal was served in absolute silence and celebrants avoided looking at the head of the table because they believed seeing the spirits would bring bad luck. After the supper, the untouched meal of the spirits was taken out and left in the woods.
Divination practices were also popular during Samhain because people believed the heightened spiritual energy of this liminal time was conducive to fortunetelling. Apples and nuts were used to predict the future and answer questions about the unknown. Some of these traditions later evolved into games, such as bobbing for apples.
During the ancient festival of Samhain, people would wear masks, veils, and ghostly disguises to conceal their identity, confuse the spirits, and protect themselves from evil. Costumes were generally made from animal skins, and face coverings might have been an effort to impersonate dead ancestors. Children, meanwhile, would go from house to house showing off their disguises and singing or performing silly tricks in exchange for treats.
The Celts also created lanterns by carving faces into root vegetables that had been gathered during the harvest, including turnips, beets, and potatoes. These lanterns were illuminated with candles and placed in windows and outside of homes to ward off mischievous otherworldly visitors, including demons. This vegetable-carving tradition came to the U.S. with Irish and Scottish immigrants who discovered that pumpkins, which weren’t indigenous to Ireland, were well suited for carving.
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Our Movie Editor’s Favorite Historical Films
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AuthorMichael Nordine
October 16, 2024
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Historical movies are often as notable for their factual inaccuracies as they are for their emotional truths, a tension that continues to define the genre. The best of them strike a delicate balance somewhere in the middle, offering insights that no other medium can deliver in the same way. And while some of the films on this list have more fidelity to the historical record than others, all are worth seeking out for the fresh perspectives they provide on old topics.
For similar articles, subscribe to our new sister brand Movie Brief, brought to you by our resident film critic Michael Nordine. You’ll receive a weekly review and recommendation of a new movie, whether in theaters or available to stream, as well as a list of 25 must-see movies when you first sign up.
If you’ve ever seen a crowd of people break into chants of “I’m Spartacus!” but never seen Stanley Kubrick’s three-hour-plus epic, there’s no time like the present to watch one of the best movies ever made about the past. Kirk Douglas stars in the title role, an enslaved gladiator in ancient Rome who breaks his chains and starts an unstoppable movement. The actor lived to be 103 and received three Academy Award nominations as well as a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame for his legendary body of work, but no singular performance was more moving than this one. (Amazon Prime Video)
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An epic before it’s even begun thanks to its all-timer of an overture by composer Maurice Jarre, Lawrence of Arabia is, quite simply, one of the greatest films ever made. To say that David Lean specialized in large-scale productions would be putting it lightly — he also directed The Bridge on the River Kwai, Doctor Zhivago, and A Passage to India — as would calling Peter O’Toole’s performance in the title role memorable. (He was nominated for an Oscar for it but, as with all seven other nominations he received, didn’t win.) It’s a movie that has not only stood the test of time but transcended it; in its scope and heft, Lawrence of Arabia has achieved timelessness. (Amazon Prime Video)
Because choosing just one Akira Kurosawa movie to highlight in any list is a fool’s errand, it seems best in this case to go with a lesser-known entry in the Rashomon, Seven Samurai, and Ikiru director’s filmography. Based on a 1923 memoir about the Nanai trapper and hunter of the same name, Dersu Uzala was Kurosawa’s first film after a suicide attempt prompted by a career downturn. The movie was quite successful, winning the Academy Award for Best Foreign-Language Film and selling more than 21 million tickets in the Soviet Union (where it was produced as Kurosawa’s only non-Japanese-language movie). There’s a ruggedness to Dersu Uzala that, along with its unfamiliar setting, makes it feel like an outlier in Kurosawa’s nonpareil filmography, but the longer it goes on, the more you realize it couldn’t have been made by anyone else. (The Criterion Channel)
It’s doubtful that anyone expected David Lynch to follow the singularly disturbing Eraserhead with a movie as comparatively normal as The Elephant Man, but that versatility is part of what makes him one of our most treasured filmmakers. Based on the life of Joseph Merrick, who suffered from severe physical deformities and whose cruel nickname gives the film its title, Lynch’s second feature might just be the saddest movie ever made. It’s also among the most beautiful, with John Hurt’s endlessly sympathetic performance as Merrick standing as a marvel in its own right — just try getting through the climactic “I am a human being!” scene with a dry eye. Despite not winning any of the eight Academy Awards for which it was nominated, the film directly led to the creation of the award for Best Makeup and Hairstyling. (Kanopy)
The Last of the Mohicans is a highlight among highlights in the filmographies of both director Michael Mann and leading man Daniel Day-Lewis. But a warning before watching: You will very likely get the music accompanying its breathless final sequence stuck in your head on and off for the rest of your life. Not that this is a bad thing. Mann's adaptation of the 1826 novel by James Fenimore Cooper is a true epic featuring adventure and sorrow in nearly equal measure, with much of the latter owed to one of the most poignant shots ever captured on film. (Tubi)
Being familiar with the films of Terrence Malick is probably better preparation for The New World than being familiar with the story of Pocahontas. As in much of his work, the uniquely philosophical filmmaker uses his ostensible subject matter — in this case, the 1607 arrival of English settlers to what will soon be known as Jamestown and the subsequent meeting of John Smith and Pocahontas — as a jumping-off point for his usual preoccupations. These include lyrical voice-over narration, striking shots of nature, and a star-crossed romance between two lovers who are seeking the same thing in different ways yet can never seem to find it — or each other. (Max)
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5 WWII Fighter Planes You Should Know
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AuthorTony Dunnell
October 15, 2024
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World War II was an unprecedented time for advancements in aviation technology, and fighter aircraft played a crucial role in the conflict’s outcome. Fighter planes — the so-called “knights of the sky”— were agile, powerful aircraft designed primarily for air-to-air combat, whether in dramatic dogfights against enemy fighters or while intercepting enemy bombers.
The demands of the war pushed fighter designs to new heights, resulting in planes that were faster, more maneuverable, and more lethal than ever before. And with air superiority often proving pivotal on any given front, from the Battle of Britain to the Battle of Kursk, these machines and their brave pilots helped shape the course of history.
Here we look at five World War II fighter planes — from Britain, the U.S., Germany, Japan, and Russia — that left an indelible mark on aviation history.
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Supermarine Spitfire
Both the Supermarine Spitfire and the Hawker Hurricane played crucial roles during the Battle of Britain, defending British airspace against wave after wave of German bombers and fighters. The sturdier Hurricane was often tasked with intercepting enemy bombers and engaging in ground attack missions, while the Spitfire, with its superior speed and agility, had the edge when engaging enemy fighters.
Both planes were vital, but the elegant Spitfire is regarded by many as the most iconic fighter aircraft of all time. The Spitfire evolved as the war progressed, from the early Mk I to, finally, the Mk 24. More powerful engines, improved armaments, and enhanced aerodynamics allowed the plane to remain competitive against newer Axis designs. Not only was it an engineering marvel, but the Spitfire also became an enduring symbol of British resistance and ingenuity.
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The Messerschmitt Bf 109 was the primary fighter aircraft of the German Luftwaffe throughout World War II. Designed in the mid-1930s, it was continually developed during the war to increase performance, stability, and firepower. For a time, it largely outmatched its enemies, including during the invasions of Poland and France. It met its first true rivals during the Battle of Britain, when it came up against the Spitfire and the Hurricane.
The Bf 109 was faster in a dive than both the Spitfire and the Hurricane and, in most circumstances, could also outclimb them. But the British fighters, in the hands of a skilled pilot, could outturn the Bf 109, and they also had greater range — a factor that proved crucial during the Battle of Britain. In total, some 34,000 Bf 109s were built, making it the most-produced fighter aircraft in history.
The American P-51 Mustang is widely considered the finest all-around piston-engined fighter of World War II. Originally designed for the British, early models of the Mustang were not good at high altitude. That changed completely with the installation of the British Rolls-Royce Merlin engine, which transformed the aircraft into a world-class fighter. In December 1943, the first P-51B and P-51C Mustangs entered combat in Europe, providing vital long-range, high-altitude escort for the U.S. bombing campaign against Germany. This drastically reduced the previously crippling losses suffered by U.S. bombers.
In 1937, the engineering team at Mitsubishi submitted a design for a lightweight, all-metal, low-wing monoplane that would match any other fighter currently in production. When the fighter went through trials two years later, it exceeded all expectations, demonstrating exceptional maneuverability, range, rate of climb, and acceleration. The Mitsubishi A6M Zero soon became the primary fighter aircraft of the Japanese during World War II.
When it first appeared in combat, the Zero could outmaneuver any plane it encountered. It wasn’t until 1943 that the Allies fielded fighters capable of defeating the Zero in aerial combat. These included new and much faster U.S. fighters such as the F6F Hellcat and F4U Corsair, which began to wrestle back air superiority from the Zero with its almost nonexistent armor. Toward the end of the war, many Zeros were converted into kamikaze aircraft.
The Yakovlev Yak-3 was a single-engine, single-seat Soviet fighter that entered service relatively late in the war, with the first iteration not flying until March 1944. Despite its late arrival, the Yak-3 quickly gained a reputation as one of the war’s finest dogfighters. One of the smallest and lightest fighter aircraft of the entire conflict, it had an impressive power-to-weight ratio, was highly agile, and was easy to maintain, making it popular among pilots and ground crews alike.
In combat, the Yak-3 proved more than a match for the best German fighters, including the Bf 109 and Focke-Wulf Fw 190. During one large dogfight in June 1944, 18 Yak-3s clashed with about 24 German aircraft. The Yaks downed 15 German aircraft while losing only one of their own. Despite seeing less action than some other World War II fighters due to its late introduction, the Yak-3 stands as one of the war’s most effective and influential designs.
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The Secret Service Code Names of 11 First Ladies
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AuthorKristina Wright
October 10, 2024
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In the chaos of a post-Civil War America, the federal law enforcement agency known as the Secret Service was formed as a branch of the U.S. Treasury Department. Back then, they weren’t the elite presidential protection unit we know today, but a critical line of defense against the rampant counterfeiting that threatened the nation’s financial stability. But that changed after the 1901 assassination of President William McKinley, when the Secret Service was assigned a new role that would redefine its legacy: protecting the nation’s political leaders and visiting foreign dignitaries.
One of the more fascinating aspects of the Secret Service is the use of code names when referring to the president, vice president, their family members, and key officials. Harry S. Truman became the first president to be assigned an official code name — “General” — in 1945, though Secret Service agents had code names for at least two first ladies before that. The practice began as advancements in communication technology called for more robust protocols for protecting leaders’ anonymity. And even though technology has evolved since the mid-20th century, the code name tradition persists as a simple way of communicating between agents. Here are 11 first ladies whose unique Secret Service code names offer some insight into this quirky aspect of political history.
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Edith Wilson: Grandma
When Edith and Woodrow Wilson married in 1915, he was two years into his first term as president and both had been previously married and widowed. Edith became the first presidential spouse to be given a Secret Service agent, and during her courtship with the president, she was assigned the code name “Grandma.” There is no indication why the Secret Service chose this seemingly unsuitable name, as Edith was only 43 years old when she married Woodrow — 15 years his junior — and not a grandmother.
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First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt suspected her husband, President Franklin D. Roosevelt, might have had something to do with choosing her Secret Service code name. She was known as “Rover,” and those who accompanied her were called “Rover’s Rangers.” She was assigned the name during World War II, when she traveled to England to visit American servicemen and observe women’s roles in the war effort. However, there is no record of the Secret Service having an official code name for FDR.
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Bess Truman: Sunnyside
First Lady Bess Truman’s code name was “Sunnyside,” thought to be a reflection of her warmhearted personality (rather than her egg preference). Her husband Harry S. Truman, who chose the code name “General” for himself, despite never achieving that rank during his military service, was also assigned the code name “Supervise.” He was possibly given this alternative name because “General” could refer to someone of that rank accompanying the president.
Traditionally, the code names given to a presidential family all start with the same letter. Once someone is assigned Secret Service protection, they choose their code name from an approved list of names kept by the White House Communications Agency. The Kennedy administration’s comparison to Camelot is highlighted by President John F. Kennedy’s choice of code name, “Lancer,” presumably a nod to Sir Lancelot, while his wife, Jacqueline Kennedy, was aptly known as “Lace,” reflecting her elegance. During JFK’s brief presidency, the White House code name was “Crown.”
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Rosalynn Carter: Dancer
Jimmy Carter’s code name, “Deacon,” reflected his strong religious faith, while his wife Rosalynn’s code name, “Dancer,” echoed her love for dancing. Before their White House years, the Carters lived in Hawaii during Jimmy’s time in the Navy, where Rosalynn became, according to her grandson Josh Carter, “a champion hula dancer.” Rosalynn’s passion for dance extended beyond hula, though. She wrote in her autobiography that she and Jimmy loved to dance together, and she enjoyed choosing entertainment for White House events, which featured performers such as Mikhail Baryshnikov and the Alvin Ailey Dance Theater over the years.
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Nancy Reagan: Rainbow
Before Ronald Reagan entered politics, his acting career included a number of roles in Western films, making his code name “Rawhide” a fitting choice. First Lady Nancy Reagan’s name, “Rainbow,” isn’t as obvious, though one biography suggests it referred to the many colors of her personality.
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Hillary Clinton: Evergreen
Although the Secret Service claims that code names aren’t tied to the personalities of those assigned, some designations do reflect aspects of the people they represent. Bill Clinton’s “Eagle” (possibly a reference to his time as an Eagle Scout) and Hillary’s “Evergreen” seem well matched, while their daughter Chelsea’s “Energy” captured the youthful vibe of a teenager in the White House. Hillary continued to use “Evergreen” during her 2008 and 2016 presidential campaigns, making the name particularly fitting for the former first lady.
Laura Bush, wife of former President George W. Bush, was assigned the code name “Tempo” to go along with the president’s code name, “Trailblazer.” The president, however, had a different code name when his father, George H.W. Bush, known as “Timberwolf,” was president: “Tumbler.”
When presented with a list of code names beginning with the letter “R” during his presidential campaign, former President Barack Obama chose “Renegade,” and First Lady Michelle Obama selected “Renaissance.” Some believe that Michelle’s name reflected her goal to rejuvenate and redefine the traditional role of first lady.
While her husband Donald Trump chose the code name “Mogul” as an homage to his time as a real estate magnate, Melania reportedly selected “Muse” in reference to her own previous career as a model. The word “muse” can be defined as a person that inspires creativity, something Melania frequently did as a fashion model earlier in her life.
First Lady Jill Biden’s code name, “Capri,” remains the same as when she was second lady and is likely a nod to her Italian heritage. President Joe Biden also kept his Irish-inspired code name, “Celtic,” from his time as vice president.
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When Did People Start Eating Three Meals a Day?
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AuthorNicole Villeneuve
October 10, 2024
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Food has always been central to human life, but our eating habits have evolved considerably over time. The idea of eating three meals a day, for instance, is now an intrinsic practice for many people, yet it’s a relatively recent development in human history. For centuries, meal habits were sporadic and dictated by various factors: success in hunting or agriculture, religious practices, work schedules, and even the availability of lighting among them. So how did we arrive at this trio of meals?
Of our three routine meals, “dinner” has the deepest etymological roots, though the meaning of the word has shifted over time. In ancient Roman times, it was the one large meal everyone ate, although it was consumed earlier in the day than it is today — sometime around noon. This extended into the Middle Ages in Europe. Laborers often ate a small meal of bread and ale early in the morning before starting a day’s work on the farm. Their main meal of the day, called dinner, was served around noon, and a light snack, known as supper, was sometimes eaten in the evening.
By the late 1700s, the Industrial Revolution was in full swing in Britain; workdays became longer, people could no longer come home to eat their main meal of the day, and artificial lighting — primarily candles — became more accessible and reliable, enabling household activities to go later into the evening. The timing of dinner began to shift, and by the end of the 18th century, many people were eating dinner in the evening after returning home from work. For most people in Europe and the United States, this evening meal became the largest and anchor meal of the day by the mid-1800s, informing the traditional family dinner as we still know it.
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In the Middle Ages, Christian religious routines dictated that nothing could be eaten before morning Mass. The word “breakfast,” literally meaning to “break the fast” from the night before, is believed to have originated in this period. Despite the term’s origins, however, breakfast as a regular meal wasn’t widely adopted until Britain slowly began industrializing and its population started moving from farms to cities throughout the 1600s. As the Industrial Revolution progressed through the 18th and 19th centuries in Europe and the United States, so did the need for a regular morning meal to sustain workers through labor-intensive mornings. By the early 20th century, breakfast culture took off even further thanks to figures such as John Harvey Kellogg, who invented Corn Flakes cereal, as well as marketing campaigns in the 1920s and ’30s promoting breakfast as the most important meal of the day.
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Lunch Arrives Late
As industrialization reshaped daily routines and more people moved from farms to factories and offices, workers needed something to sustain them during the long hours between their morning and evening meals at home. Enter lunch, the last of the three modern meals to cement its place in our daily eating habits. As late as 1755, lunch was simply understood as a small amount of food, more of a snack than a formal meal. Though the origins of the word are murky, it’s likely a short form of “luncheon,” itself possibly from the English words “lump” (a small mass) and “nuncheon” (a slight midday refreshment). It wasn’t until around 1850 that lunch officially began filling the gap between breakfast and dinner. By the turn of the 20th century, it had become a defined meal, typically eaten between 12 p.m. and 2 p.m., and consisting of standard lunch fare even by today’s standards: sandwiches, soups, and salads.
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What Artists Were Actually Famous in Their Lifetime?
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AuthorTimothy Ott
October 10, 2024
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There’s an old stereotype about the “starving artist” having to suffer in poverty and isolation as the world rejects their efforts, and many times in history it’s proved to be true. Even all-time greats such as Vincent Van Gogh and Johannes Vermeer struggled to draw attention to the very works that were later taught in art schools around the world.
But not every successful artist spends a lifetime waiting in vain for the recognition that never arrives. Here are five figures who saw the adulation of the masses, and the accompanying financial windfalls, while they were still around to enjoy the success.
Italy’s thriving city-states were marvelous places for gifted artists during the 16th century, and no one attracted more demand from wealthy patrons than Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni. Following the stunning successes of his marble-carved Pietà (1498-1499) and David statue (1501-1504), Michelangelo became a favorite of Pope Julius II, for whom he produced the equally breathtaking Moses (1513-1515) as part of an otherwise unfinished mausoleum project. While he primarily viewed himself as a sculptor, Michelangelo also delivered some of humankind’s greatest paintings with frescoes such as “The Creation of Adam” (1508-1512) on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, and he later displayed his talents for design after taking over as chief architect of St. Peter’s Basilica. The nonstop commissions made this Renaissance master a very rich man, even as he lived frugally, while his fame made him the first Western artist to be the subject of a biography while he was still alive.
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While not as well remembered as Michelangelo, painter Joshua Reynolds was a big deal in 18th-century England. Reynolds is best known for launching the “Grand Manner” portraiture movement, which placed subjects in classical poses amid idealized depictions of nature, even if many of his works aged poorly due to his experiments with colors. Thanks to his personal connections, the artist received the opportunity to paint many of his era’s celebrities (including King George III) and establish his own standing in high-society circles.
A founding member of the Royal Academy of Arts, Reynolds became its inaugural president in 1768, and was knighted the following year. Around that time he delivered the first of 15 lectures to Royal Academy students, later published for posterity as Discourses. Upon his death in 1792, Reynolds’ body was brought to London’s St. Paul’s Cathedral in a procession that included 91 carriages filled with his famous friends, trailed by the members of the Royal Academy’s faculty and student body.
Overcoming the stifling limitations of her traditional training, Georgia O’Keeffe forged her own path to emerge as the “mother of American modernism” in the years following World War I. This was partly due to the connections and promotional abilities of her husband, New York gallery owner Alfred Stieglitz, but mainly due to the accessibility of her work. Unlike, say, French modernist Marcel Duchamp, who aimed to provoke by exhibiting a urinal in a gallery, O’Keeffe’s abstractions were far more pleasing to the eye and mind.
Drawing inspiration from her immediate surroundings, be it the petals featured in “Petunia No. 2” (1924), the skyscraper of “Radiator Building - Night, New York” (1927), or the horned subject of “Cow's Skull: Red, White and Blue” (1931), O’Keeffe found an audience willing to shell out premium prices for her oil paintings by the 1920s. The first woman to earn a retrospective from the Museum of Modern Art in 1946, she was recognized as a national treasure toward the end of her life, receiving the Medal of Freedom from President Gerald Ford in 1977 and the Medal of Arts from President Ronald Reagan in 1985.
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Salvador Dalí
Instantly recognizable with his pointed mustache and wide-eyed countenance, Spain’s Salvador Dalí wielded a celebrity that transcended his formidable skills with a paintbrush. Following his early dabbles with cubism and impressionism, Dalí became a leader of the burgeoning surrealist movement by way of such compellingly bizarre paintings as “The Persistence of Memory” (1931) and “The Enigma of William Tell” (1933).
While he was soon excommunicated from the surrealists, the combination of his instinct for public theatrics and the acute business sense of his wife and muse, Gala, ensured his survival as a one-man brand. Dalí spent much of the 1940s in the United States, where he channeled his creativity toward projects in feature films, jewelry, and theater set design, before returning to Spain at the end of the decade to focus on religious imagery in his paintings. While his later years were not happy ones, Dalí had earned enough money to buy a castle for his beloved Gala, as well as the creative freedom to launch a museum dedicated to his works in his hometown of Figueres.
Had he continued on his early career path as a commercial illustrator, Andy Warhol likely would have retired a financially secure if mostly unknown individual. Instead, he became the face of the pop art movement by way of photo-based paintings such as “Campbell’s Soup Cans” (1962) and “Triple Elvis” (1963), while his Manhattan studio, aka “The Factory,” emerged as the center of the bohemian New York City art scene. Although he ostensibly “retired” from painting in the mid-’60s to focus on filmmaking and other endeavors, that decision proved short-lived; Warhol supported himself by undertaking commissioned portraits through the 1970s, and he later enjoyed a revival via collaborations with younger talents such as Jean-Michel Basquiat. His fame and fortune intact upon his death in 1987, Warhol demonstrated to successive generations of artists that it was OK to fulfill one’s creative ambitions while simultaneously seeking pursuit of the almighty dollar.
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6 Famous Members of the Skull and Bones Secret Society
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AuthorTony Dunnell
October 10, 2024
Love it?39
In 1832, Yale University students William Huntington Russell and Alphonso Taft co-founded “The Order of the Skull and Bones,” a secret society that has gone on to become one of the most elite organizations of its kind in the United States. For almost two centuries, Skull and Bones has been a subject of much fascination, speculation, and suspicion. Its members have included some of the most influential and powerful figures in American history — including three U.S. presidents — and its secrecy has fueled numerous conspiracy theories and rumors about the society’s true nature and purpose.
Over the years, several strange secrets about Skull and Bones have been revealed. According to some accounts, new members are — or once were — made to lie naked in a stone coffin while describing their most intimate secrets and experiences. And the society’s headquarters — a stark, windowless brownstone building in New Haven, Connecticut, called “The Tomb” — is rumored to house a number of macabre artifacts, including the skulls of the Apache warrior Geronimo and the Mexican revolutionary Pancho Villa. Perhaps of greater import to the Bonesmen and Boneswomen, as initiates are known (women were granted membership in 1992), is the promise that all members are guaranteed lifelong financial stability — in exchange, of course, for their absolute loyalty and secrecy.
Despite this secretive nature, many prominent individuals have been identified as members of Skull and Bones. (Up until 1971, the society published an annual membership register.) Here are six of the most influential known members of the secret society.
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William Howard Taft, 27th President of the United States
William Howard Taft served as president of the United States from 1909 to 1913, and later as chief justice of the United States — he is the only person to have held both positions. The young Taft was initiated as a Bonesman in 1878, which was no surprise as his father, Alphonso Taft, was the society’s co-founder. It’s hard to say how much bearing Skull and Bones had on Taft’s career, but he rose rapidly after Yale and was appointed a judge while still in his 20s. He became a federal circuit judge at 34, and in 1900 was sent to the Philippines by President William McKinley to serve as chief civil administrator — a political position that set him on the path to the White House.
Walter Camp, often referred to as the “father of American football,” was initiated into Skull and Bones in 1880. He was a college football player and coach at Yale, during which time he played a pivotal role in shaping the rules and strategies of the game. Camp’s changes included the introduction of the quarterback role, reducing the team size to 11 from 15, and replacing the traditional scrum of British rugby with the scrimmage. He served on Yale’s athletic committee for nearly 50 years, influencing not just football but collegiate athletics as a whole, and is widely considered his generation’s most influential champion of athletic sports.
Henry Luce was a hugely influential publisher who founded Time magazine, Life magazine, Fortune, and Sports Illustrated. Before he became one of the most powerful figures in the history of American journalism, Luce was a member of Skull and Bones. He was initiated in 1920 alongside his best friend Briton Hadden, with whom he co-founded Time in 1923. Hadden died six years after Time was first published, leaving Luce in sole control of the magazine. As with all new members of Skull and Bones, Luce was assigned a secret name — in his case, “Baal.” Many Bonesmen were given names from literature, myth, or religion, such as Hamlet, Uncle Remus, Sancho Panza, Thor, and Odin.
Skull and Bones has had its fair share of scientifically minded members, including climatologist William Welch Kellogg and physicist John B. Goodenough (recipient of the 2019 Nobel Prize for chemistry). Then there was Lyman Spitzer, a theoretical physicist and astronomer who joined Skull and Bones in 1935. Spitzer made significant contributions to several fields of astrophysics, including research into star formation and plasma physics. He was also the first person to propose the idea for a space-based observatory, which he detailed in his 1946 paper “Astronomical Advantages of an Extra-Terrestrial Observatory.” His idea later became reality in 1977, when NASA, along with the European Space Agency, took the concept and began developing what became the Hubble Space Telescope.
George H.W. Bush, 41st President of the United States
George H.W. Bush was a notable student during his time at Yale. He was accepted into Phi Beta Kappa, a prestigious academic honor society; he captained the Yale baseball team that played in the first two College World Series; and he was a member of the Yale cheerleading squad. He was a worthy candidate for Skull and Bones, which he was initiated into in 1948. Later, of course, Bush became the second Bonesman to occupy the Oval Office, when he was sworn in as the 41st president of the United States in 1989. Bush wasn’t the first of his family to join Skull and Bones, though. His father, U.S. Senator Prescott Bush, was initiated in 1917, while his uncle George Herbert Walker Jr. joined a decade later. Bush’s son, George W. Bush (the 43rd president of the United States), continued the family tradition when he too was initiated in 1968.
On the other end of the political spectrum, plenty of Bonesmen have gone on to become members of the Democratic Party, the most famous of which is John Kerry, initiated in 1966. Prior to serving as secretary of state under Barack Obama, Kerry was the Democratic nominee for president in the 2004 election — and his opponent was none other than fellow Bonesman George W. Bush. When Kerry was asked what he could say about the significance of both him and Bush being Skull and Bones members, he simply and dutifully replied, “Not much, because it’s a secret.”
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5 Timeless Drinks From the Cocktail Golden Age
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AuthorBennett Kleinman
October 3, 2024
Love it?51
The mid-1800s to the start of Prohibition in 1920 is considered a golden age of mixology in the United States. Imbibing alcohol had long been a crucial component of Americans’ social lives, but for many years people mainly drank rudimentary ales, ciders, rums, and whiskeys. That began to change during the Industrial Revolution, with the mass-production of alcoholic spirits. As copious amounts of affordable liquor became available, some ingenious bartenders began to experiment with new cocktail recipes, many of which became highly popular and in turn revolutionized the alcohol industry.
By the middle of the 19th century, many new boozy beverages with complex and decadent flavor profiles were being created, giving rise to a golden age of cocktails — a term first used in 1798 to describe a “drink made from water, sugar, spirits, and bitters,” according to etymonline.com. In 1862, New York City bartender and saloon owner Jerry Thomas — who TheNew York Timescalled the “Father of American Mixology” — published The Bar-Tenders’ Guide, which is now widely considered the first cocktail book in U.S. history. This foundational text redefined cocktail-making, bringing innovative mixed drinks to the masses and inspiring future creations. Here’s a look at five timeless drinks that came out of this golden age of cocktails.
Some sources claim the origins of the Sazerac date back to the 1830s, though that date is disputed; according to drinks columnist and cocktail expert David Wondrich, it was more likely invented during the 1880s or 1890s. Whatever the origins, there’s no disputing the Sazerac is still a beloved classic cocktail, particularly among residents of the city where it was created: New Orleans, Louisiana.
The earliest Sazeracs were made using a French brandy called Sazerac de Forge et Fils Cognac, which was mixed with half a teaspoon of cold water, a sugar cube, a lemon peel, and four dashes of bitters. The purported mastermind behind this libation was pharmacist Antoine Amédée Peychaud, who moved from the French colony of St. Domingue to New Orleans around 1800. (Peychaud is also known for selling his namesake bitters, which have become staples of cocktail bars around the world.)
Around 1885, the cognac in the recipe was swapped out for American rye whiskey, which remains the standard spirit used in Sazeracs. The preparation process is also noteworthy: While the drink is mixed in one glass, another chilled cocktail glass is swirled with a wash of absinthe; the ingredients are then poured into the absinthe-scented glass and served immediately. After well over a century of enduring popularity, Sazerac was declared the official cocktail of New Orleans in 2008.
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The old-fashioned cocktail we know today was the result of trial and error throughout the 19th century. One early predecessor was Thomas’ “Gin Cocktail,” which was similar to an old-fashioned but with gin instead of whiskey or bourbon. Credit for the drink as we know it today is often given to the bourbon distiller Colonel James E. Pepper. He is said to have created the cocktail at the Pendennis Club in Louisville, Kentucky, and then introduced the recipe to bartenders at the Waldorf Astoria hotel in New York City, leading to a rise in its popularity — though it’s possible the story is apocryphal.
Before the name “old-fashioned” was christened, a similar concoction of whiskey mixed with bitters was known as a “Whiskey Cocktail,” according to Difford’s Guide. In the 1870s, bartenders began adding ingredients like absinthe and Chartreuse, so customers began ordering “old-fashioned Whiskey Cocktails” when they wanted a simple drink.
The 1888 Bartenders’ Manual by Theodore Proulx includes one of the earliest printed recipes for the old-fashioned: “one-half lump of sugar… add a little bitters, syrup and absinthe… twist a piece of lemon-peel… drop in two or three pieces of ice, one jigger of whisky… and strain into another glass.” Bartenders and patrons alike loved the drink for its simplicity, as it provided an easy alternative to the increasingly complex cocktails of the time. It wasn’t until the 20th century that several now-commonplace modifications were made to the drink, including adding maraschino cherries and orange zest.
When it comes to the origins of the Manhattan cocktail, the one thing historians know for certain is that it was created in the 19th century. But how it was created remains in dispute, as many of its origin stories are somewhat dubious. The most oft-repeated story claims it was invented in 1874 for a dinner held by Lady Randolph Churchill, Winston Churchill’s mother, in honor of New York Governor Samuel J. Tilden. But historians cast doubt on the claim, suggesting she was actually back in England at the time while pregnant with Winston. Another more probable, yet still uncertain story is that the cocktail was invented by a bartender named “Black” — possibly a man named George Black, according to Difford’s Guide — in the 1860s. Black purportedly worked at a tavern on Houston Street in New York City called the Manhattan Inn, hence the drink’s name.
In any case, the Manhattan cocktail made its way into recipe books in the 1880s. An 1882 column in The Olean Democrat referenced the “Manhattan Cocktail” (also known as a “Turf Club” or “Jockey Club” cocktail) as a mixture of bitters, whiskey, and vermouth. In 1884, recipes for two types of Manhattans appeared in O.H. Byron’s The Modern Bartenders’ Guide. The “Manhattan Cocktail, No. 1” was made using French vermouth, whiskey, Angostura bitters, and gum syrup, while the “No. 2” variant contained “Curacoa,” Angostura bitters, whiskey, Italian vermouth, and ice.
According to cocktail expert Simon Difford, nobody is certain as to the exact origin of the martini — a classic mix of either gin or vodka and dry vermouth, garnished with a lemon twist or olive. But one of the leading theories is that the martini was derived from a popular boozy beverage called the Martinez. The Martinez, which has unclear origins of its own, is a cocktail made of equal parts gin and sweet vermouth, with a quarter-ounce of maraschino liqueur, a few dashes of Angostura bitters, and an orange twist. Some think that the Martinez was invented by Thomas at his Bay Area saloon for a customer who was traveling to the nearby city of Martinez, California. But those who live in the city of Martinez itself say that it was created by a local bartender. Either way, the first known printed recipe for a Martinez appeared in Byron’s 1884 cocktail guide.
The first known print recipe for a “Martini Cocktail,” meanwhile, appeared four years later in Harry Johnson’s Bartender Manual. The drink contained gum syrup, bitters (specifically the Boker’s brand), “curacoa” (curaçao), Old Tom gin, and vermouth. This recipe was quite similar to that of another cocktail at the time, the Marguerite, which was made with Plymouth gin, French vermouth, and orange bitters. It wasn’t long until the very first recipe for a “Dry Martini” was printed, in the 1904 French cocktail book American-Bar Recettes des Boissons Anglaises et Américaine.The recipe specifically called for dry vermouth in place of the sweeter vermouths that were commonly used at the time. Martini recipes became simpler as time went on, and both curaçao and orange bitters were largely removed by the 1940s.
Though the drink has fallen out of fashion, the Blue Blazer was one of the most spectacular cocktails created during the golden age. Its origins date back to the 1850s, but it became a widespread sensation after Thomas’ Bar-Tenders’ Guide was published in 1862. Thomas purportedly conceived of the Blue Blazer while working at a gambling saloon in San Francisco. The drink itself was rather simple, but the showmanship that accompanied it won over the hearts of patrons.
The recipe is reminiscent of what we know today as a hot toddy, and begins by mixing “1 wine-glass” of Scotch whisky with boiling water in a silver-plated mug. The mug is then lit aflame, and its fiery contents are poured between two mugs “four or five times,” creating a visually stunning arc of blue flame. Per the instructions, you then add one teaspoon of white sugar and a lemon peel to cap it all off. This dramatic performance delighted onlookers, including Ulysses S. Grant, who once witnessed Thomas make the drink firsthand.
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Surprising Hobbies of U.S. Presidents
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AuthorTony Dunnell
October 3, 2024
Love it?54
Being the president of the United States is no easy task. The day-to-day responsibilities and weighty decisions of the presidency are enough to turn anyone gray, and the role typically draws more criticism than praise. With so much pressure involved, even the most dedicated commander in chief needs some respite from the job. It’s only natural, then, that throughout the history of the White House, the private lives of American presidents have been filled with a wide array of hobbies.
Some of these activities have been fairly common, such as reading, horseback riding, fishing, painting, and of course, golf. Others, however, are not necessarily what you’d expect from a person holding the highest office in the land. Here are some of the more surprising hobbies of U.S. presidents.
Beyond extensive reading and writing, John Quincy Adams enjoyed a wholesome morning routine in which he would wake between 4 a.m. and 5 a.m. and set off on a 2-mile walk. In the summer months, this walk included taking a daily dip in the Potomac River, wearing nothing apart from his large sideburns. (Adams was the first U.S. president to have facial hair.) According to legend, a female reporter named Anne Royall was keen to talk with the president, so she went to the river while he was bathing in the buff, sat on his clothes, and refused to move until he granted her an interview. This likely never occurred, however — the oft-repeated story unfortunately has no basis in fact.
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Before he became president, Abe Lincoln was a dedicated wrestler. The 6-foot-4 future president may have fought as many as 300 matches, and legend has it he lost only once. For his efforts, he was posthumously inducted into the Wrestling Hall of Fame in 1992, as an "Outstanding American" in the sport. Honest Abe gave up wrestling before he became president in 1861, after which he was more often found reading and telling jokes. After moving into the White House, Lincoln’s wife, Mary Todd Lincoln, was asked about her husband’s hobbies, to which she simply replied: “cats.” Lincoln became the first president to keep cats as pets at the White House when he was given two kittens that he named Tabby and Dixie, and by most accounts he was entirely devoted to them.
Calvin Coolidge was roundly mocked by opponents and the press when news broke of his peculiar hobby: riding a mechanical hobby horse. The electric horse — a barrel-shaped contraption made of wood, metal, and leather — was installed in the White House for the president’s exercise. Coolidge, who loved riding actual horses, became rather fond of the mechanical version. He rode it three times a day both for exercise and as a stress reliever (and, one might assume, for pleasure). The mechanical horse even had two variable gaits: “trot” and “gallop.”
John F. Kennedy Collected Model Ships and Scrimshaw
JFK loved the sea and sailing, a passion reflected in his collection of model ships. He had numerous ships in his personal collection, from Chinese war junks to 18th-century French frigates, some of which were on display in the Oval Office. He also collected scrimshaw — intricate scrollwork, engravings, and carvings done in bone or ivory, often created by sailors on whaling ships in the 18th and 19th centuries. He kept pieces scattered around the Oval Office, including some on his desk. His favorite item of scrimshaw was a custom-made piece featuring the presidential seal, given to him as a Christmas gift from his wife, Jacqueline Kennedy, in 1962. When JFK was buried, Jackie Kennedy placed the piece in her husband’s coffin.
During his presidency, Richard Nixon liked to blow off steam by going bowling. He could often be found at the bowling alley in the Old Executive Office Building, across the street from the White House. He later had a one-lane alley built in the White House basement, beneath the North Portico entrance. In 1971, The New York Times reported that Nixon had an average bowling score of 165 and a respectable high score of 229.
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Bill Clinton Is Obsessed With Crossword Puzzles
Most people know that Bill Clinton plays the saxophone, a talent he famously demonstrated on The Arsenio Hall Show. But the 42nd president also has a more sedate hobby: crossword puzzles. In 2002, he wrote a letter to Will Shortz, the editor of the renowned New York Times puzzle, saying, “Keep the crosswords coming. Even when I can’t finish them, they’re the only part of the Times that guarantees good feeling!” Later, in 2017, he helped create a crossword puzzle for the Times. “When I was president,” he once recalled, “I worked no telling how many hundreds and hundreds of crossword puzzles. I find it very relaxing. For a moment, you take your mind off whatever you’re doing.”
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