As the popular HBO series Game of Thrones ably demonstrated, dinner gatherings can be somewhat unruly. Sure, the infamous Red Wedding is an extreme case, but the dinner table has historically been a genuinely hazardous place, particularly during gatherings of squabbling rivals and belligerent men of war, all drinking copious amounts of wine while carrying their own pointy knives.
Because of this, a type of crowd control emerged in medieval Europe and beyond: table manners. Dining etiquette didn’t develop just for show and pomposity. In some cases, it was a way of controlling — and sometimes disarming — a room before things got ugly. Here are five dining customs that started as peacekeeping tools long before they became part of modern table manners.
As kids, many of us were told to keep our elbows off the table — and we probably wondered why. The roots of this custom go all the way back to medieval feasts. These were often tightly packed affairs in which guests sat around long trestle tables to eat, drink, and carouse. If a reveler leaned too heavily or clumsily on the table, their elbows could jostle a neighbor’s cup, spill food, or even tip an unstable table entirely — the kind of collision that could spark a physical fight in already tense circumstances. Etiquette historians also note that resting your elbows on the table could be read as an aggressive, greedy posture — the body language of someone ready to lunge for food or grab a flagon of wine.
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Reaching across the table is another common no-no when it comes to table etiquette. It’s hard to say exactly when this became frowned upon, but it follows the same logic that made elbows on the table a widespread faux pas. During a cramped and rowdy medieval gathering, reaching across the table ran the risk of dragging a sleeve through someone else’s plate, crowding a neighbor mid-bite, or simply appearing greedy — all of which could be enough to provoke an angry rebuke that could spill over into a knife fight.
In medieval Europe, people weren’t normally provided with cutlery at a meal. It was typical, therefore, to carry your own knife — almost always a sharp, pointed blade that could be used both as a tool to skewer food (forks weren’t common back then) and as a weapon.
This was far from ideal when it came to keeping things civilized at boisterous dinner gatherings — indeed, one well-known historical figure, Cardinal Richelieu, chief minister to King Louis XIII of France, was highly unimpressed by the situation. He grew tired of watching dinner guests use their knife points to pick their teeth and settle arguments, so in 1637 he ordered that the tips of all his knives be ground down and rounded. These were then provided to guests to stop uncouth behavior — and in so doing the cardinal invented, or at least popularized, the table knife.
Not long after, in 1669, King Louis XIV made things official: He banned pointed knives from both the street and the table specifically to reduce violence. The rounded dinner knives we use today evolved from this decree.
The etiquette surrounding knives didn’t stop when they lost their points. Table-setting tradition holds that a knife should always rest on the table or plate with its blade facing inward — not toward a neighbor — and it should never be picked up to gesture with or wave around while talking. It’s impossible to say categorically if this started specifically to prevent an easy slash across a nearby throat, as some etiquette historians suggest. It could just as well be a logical way of setting down a knife so that it doesn’t need to be turned around in the hand when it’s picked up. But it’s easy to see how a knife pointed at someone, even by accident, could read as a threat, and how pointing it away from an adjacent diner is at least a subtle gesture of goodwill.
The common custom of waiting for everyone to be served before eating isn’t aimed directly at preventing brawls, but it can be seen as a way to avoid social friction at the dinner table. Victorian-era etiquette guides such as Isabella Beeton’s 1861 Book of Household Management describe elaborate, sequenced courses that required plenty of planning and order. Digging in early would not only have thrown off the entire meal’s rhythm and left other diners behind, but could also have meant that someone was left with an empty plate while everyone else was eating. The awkwardness of being left out was, and still is, exactly the kind of slight that could sour a shared meal — and if there was already some friction in the room, it might have boiled over into an embarrassing ruckus.
Ask a group of friends to name their favorite childhood sandwich, and chances are peanut butter and jelly will be near the top of the list. However you make it, it’s a simple sandwich that has a way of calling up childhood lunches, school cafeterias, kitchen counters, and the comforts of home.
Today, the PB&J seems so thoroughly American that it’s hard to imagine a time when it wasn’t a lunchtime staple. It’s inexpensive, portable, filling, and easy enough for a child to make. But those qualities don’t explain how peanut butter and jelly went from separate foods to a beloved sandwich pairing. So how did this classic combination become such a familiar part of American life?
Peanut butter’s American story began in the late 19th century, when peanuts were increasingly promoted as an inexpensive source of protein. People had been grinding peanuts into a paste for centuries, but modern peanut butter was introduced commercially in the 1890s. One early version was reportedly sold at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair, although the true inventor of peanut butter remains unknown.
Health reformers including John Harvey Kellogg experimented with nut butters as alternatives to animal products. Kellogg patented a process for producing peanut-based food in 1895, but he didn’t invent peanut butter, nor did George Washington Carver, who helped popularize peanuts and developed hundreds of others uses for them.
Early on, peanut butter was an expensive luxury that was more likely to appear in restaurants and tea rooms than in a child’s lunch box. It might have been served on crackers or toast alongside ingredients such as watercress, tomatoes, pimentos, or relish.
The first known published recipe combining peanut butter and jelly appeared in 1901 in the Boston Cooking School Magazine of Culinary Science & Domestic Economics. Author Julia Davis Chandler suggested making tiny bread fingers with three thin layers of bread, peanut paste, and currant or crab apple jelly. The dainty sandwiches fit the era’s tea-room and luncheon culture, when peanut butter was still considered something of a specialty food rather than an everyday pantry staple. As commercial production made peanut butter more widely available and affordable in the following decades, it gradually moved from upscale tables into American home kitchens.
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Fruit preserves also have a long history. The earliest jam-like recipe appears in De Re Coquinaria, a Roman cookbook compiled in the fourth century CE, calling for quince mashed with honey. For centuries, honey (and later, sugar) helped preserve fruit so it could be enjoyed after the growing season ended. Sugar was expensive for much of history, however, making sweet preserves more of a luxury than an everyday food. As sugar became more affordable and commercial food production expanded in the 19th century, jams and jellies became more accessible to American households.
Preserves, jam, and jelly are similar, but they aren’t quite the same. Preserves contain whole or large pieces of fruit, while jam is made from crushed, mashed, or pureed fruit, giving it a softer, spreadable texture. Jelly is made from strained fruit juice, giving it a smooth, firm texture. All three became increasingly common packaged foods as improvements in preservation and manufacturing made them easier to produce and sell.
By the early 20th century, Welch’s had made Concord grape juice a familiar American product, helped by its promotion at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair. The company later expanded into grape spreads, including Grapelade, a sweet jam that the U.S. military purchased for troops during World War I. Welch’s eventually produced grape jelly as well, helping establish grape as the classic fruit spread for the peanut butter sandwich.
In the late 1920s, commercially sliced bread made sandwiches easier and quicker to prepare. Instead of slicing a loaf every time, families could simply open a package. That convenience was especially useful for packed lunches and made a simple sandwich such as PB&J easy enough for children to assemble themselves.
By the 1930s, peanut butter was also a practical choice for families watching their budgets. It provided protein and calories without the expense of meat, while bread was inexpensive and jelly added sweetness. The ingredients kept reasonably well without refrigeration, making the sandwich useful for school lunches and other meals away from home.
World War II helped cement PB&J’s place in American food culture. Both peanut butter and jelly were included in U.S. military food supplies because they were portable, filling, and relatively shelf-stable. Peanut butter also provided protein at a time when meat and other foods were subject to rationing.
After the war, the sandwich became increasingly associated with children, school lunches, and family life as convenience foods became a bigger part of everyday eating. For generations of American kids, a peanut butter and jelly sandwich was one of the first meals they could make entirely on their own. It crossed economic lines, traveled easily, required no cooking, and offered endless variations in breads, spreads, and proportions. And what started out as an unlikely pairing of two foods became the classic American lunch.
Today, foods that signal wealth might include caviar, truffles, or a steak gilded with edible gold. But status is a fickle thing. Many foods now languishing in spice cabinets, supermarket aisles, or neglected crudité platters once served as a way to proclaim their owners’ prosperity.
Some of these foods were scarce imports carried across oceans; others demanded special equipment or days of servants’ labor. Advances in agriculture, manufacturing, and transportation eventually brought them within reach of ordinary households — and gave the upper crust reason to find something else to show off.
For wealthy 19th-century Americans, one of the most elegant additions to the dinner table was a towering centerpiece of celery. The vegetable was considered difficult to cultivate, in part because growers had to “blanch” it by piling soil around the stalks to protect them from sunlight, making them paler, sweeter, and less bitter than their wild cousins. (At the time, pale yellow was seen as the ideal color for celery.) From roughly the 1830s through the 1880s, hosts displayed entire bunches of celery upright in specially made glass or silver celery vases, much like flower arrangements.
The introduction of the easier-to-grow Golden Self-Blanching variety around 1884 helped turn the prized vegetable into an ordinary one. The vases gradually disappeared, and celery began its long descent toward becoming the last thing left on the veggie platter.
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Modern gelatin requires little more than opening a packet and adding water. But its ancestors required boiling animal bones or calves’ feet for days, then repeatedly straining, clarifying, and cooling the extracted collagen. Few households could spare the time or labor, which led elaborate (and sometimes bizarre) molded jellies and aspics to become centerpieces on elite tables. From the medieval era to roughly the mid-19th-century, serving one announced that you possessed a well-equipped kitchen and plenty of household help.
American engineer and inventor Peter Cooperpatented a powdered “portable gelatin” in 1845, but the biggest transformation came after the Jell-O brand arrived late in the century. Early advertisements promised that ordinary homemakers could serve what rich people ate for just 10 cents a box.
Europeans went wild for pineapples after encountering the fruit in the Americas, but supplying inventory to meet that enthusiasm proved difficult. Pineapples frequently rotted during long ocean voyages, while growing them in northern Europe required hothouses and specialist gardeners. Around the 1600s, the fruit became such a recognizable emblem of wealth that it appeared in architecture, furniture, linens, and tableware. Affluent hosts displayed actual pineapples as centerpieces, sometimes keeping them until they began to spoil. Those unable to buy one could rent a pineapple from a confectioner for an evening of entertaining. By the 20th century, steamship transportation, commercial plantations, and canning finally made the fruit affordable to eat rather than merely admire on the dinner table.
Before mechanical refrigeration, serving ice cream in summer implied that someone had harvested ice in winter, transported it home, and preserved it for months in an insulated icehouse. Making the dessert also required costly sugar and cream, plus the tedious work of stirring a container set inside a bucket of ice and salt. By the 18th century, European confectioners were molding ices into elaborate fruits and flowers for royalty, flavored with botanicals such as orange blossom, jasmine, and rose.
Wealthy Americans adopted the spectacle: George Washington owned a “Cream Machine for Making Ice,” as it was known, while Thomas Jefferson’s papers preserved a handwritten vanilla ice cream recipe. At Monticello, filling the icehouse in 1803 required 62 wagonloads. The invention of the hand-cranked freezer in 1843 expanded commercial ice cream supplies, and eventually electric refrigeration brought the frozen dessert to the wider public.
Long before mass-produced sandwich bread became a byword for blandness, an airy white loaf reflected considerable means. Wheat was costlier than grains such as rye and barley, and refining it required repeatedly sifting away the bran and germ — discarding nutritious portions that people dependent on bread could scarcely afford to waste.
Small white loaves and rolls consequently appeared on elite tables, while laborers ate dense, dark breads made from mixed grains and sometimes peas. Until milling became industrialized in the 19th century, white bread remained closely associated with wealth. Modern food culture has nearly reversed that symbolism: Supermarket white bread is cheap, while a rustic whole-grain loaf can command a premium.
Cloves now spend much of the year forgotten in spice cabinets, awaiting the arrival of mulled cider, eggnog, or holiday ham. But in medieval Europe, these dried flower buds were a delicacy shrouded in myth. They traveled from a small group of islands in present-day Indonesia, although their location was so well-protected that some outsiders thought they were cultivated by genies. In the 15th century, they cost a skilled London artisan nearly five days’ wages per pound. Wealthy hosts displayed their means by seasoning numerous dishes and even filling fountains with fragrant spiced wine.
European demand eventually led to a violent competition to control the clove trade. In the 17th century, the Dutch East India Company ordered clove trees outside its territory uprooted and burned to protect its monopoly. That monopoly weakened after clove seedlings were smuggled to Mauritius in 1770, and cultivation subsequently spread through the Indian Ocean.
The word “vanilla” now describes anything conventional, plain, or unadventurous — an odd fate for a flavor once enjoyed largely by royalty and aristocrats as a symbol of colonial wealth. Native to Mexico and Central America, vanilla initially reached Europe as an accompaniment to another luxury import: chocolate.
Around 1602, Queen Elizabeth I’s apothecary, Hugh Morgan, reportedly created sweets flavored with vanilla alone, which the queen adored. Attempts to cultivate the orchid elsewhere produced flowers but few pods until 1841, when Edmond Albius, an enslaved 12-year-old on Réunion (a French island in the Indian Ocean), developed the efficient hand-pollination technique still used today. Cultivation spread, but real vanilla remained laborious and expensive to produce. Beginning in the late 19th century, inexpensive synthetic vanillin helped transform the formerly exotic spice into the default flavor of cookies, cakes, sodas, and ice cream.
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The Strange Origins of Common Food Superstitions
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AuthorTony Dunnell
September 10, 2026
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Humans are superstitious creatures by nature, with many strange habits that seem entirely illogical. We avoid walking under ladders or opening umbrellas indoors in fear of bad luck. We knock on wood to prevent disappointment. We shun the number 13 and we can’t quite decide whether black cats are good or bad omens. None of these actions makes much practical sense, and the same is true for a range of superstitions involving food.
Food is a necessity that keeps us functioning and alive, but eating is also a cultural experience, rich with symbolic gestures, long-held traditions, and curious rituals. These include plenty of superstitions believed to bring luck, prosperity, health, wealth, and a range of other supposed benefits. And while modern science may dismiss these practices as mere folklore with no logical basis, there are plenty of common food-based superstitions we just won’t let go.
Here are six superstitions involving food, all of which demonstrate the human desire to find greater meaning or significance in the otherwise simple and essential acts of cooking, eating, and sharing meals.
According to one common food superstition, if you accidentally spill salt, you should immediately throw a pinch of it over your left shoulder. The origins of this strange belief aren’t entirely clear. It possibly dates back to the ancient world, including the Romans and Sumerians, when salt was a highly prized commodity and therefore spilling it was frowned upon.
Later, during the Renaissance, Leonardo da Vinci created one of his most famous works, “The Last Supper,” in which Judas Iscariot is portrayed knocking over a container of salt with his elbow, suggesting that the connection between spilled salt and bad luck was well established by that time. But why do we throw the spilled salt over our left shoulder? The common belief today is that the devil and evil spirits are said to lurk over the left shoulder, and the pinch of jinx-reducing salt is destined for their eyes.
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In the American South, eating black-eyed peas on New Year’s Day is a common tradition and superstition said to bring luck and prosperity throughout the year ahead. When enslaved Africans brought black-eyed peas to America, the beans were initially used as food for livestock and enslaved people only. Black-eyed peas gained wider acceptance during the Civil War, when they were one of the few foods left untouched by Union troops, who considered them animal feed. Southerners therefore managed to survive on black-eyed peas during the winter, and so began the association with good luck and prosperity, and the tradition of eating them on New Year’s Day.
Breaking the wishbone of a cooked chicken or turkey is a common Christmas practice in the United Kingdom and a Thanksgiving tradition in the United States. Objectively, it’s a very strange thing to do, no matter how much luck might be up for grabs: It involves making a wish while pulling the bird bone in two with another person, and the person who gets the bigger piece will have their wish granted.
The origins of this peculiar superstition are debatable. One common theory goes all the way back to the ancient Etruscans, who saw birds as potent oracles. They extracted wishbones from chickens, dried them in the sun, and then touched the bones as a form of divination. The Romans picked up this practice later, by which time the bone was being snapped in half, possibly to double its power. The Romans then introduced the concept to Britain, and it eventually found its way to the Americas via English settlers.
It’s hard to say whether the superstition really has such a long and storied history with a direct link all the way back to the Etruscans. We do know that the wishbone-breaking tradition as we know it today existed at least as early as the 17th century or early 18th century, when the bone was known as a “merrythought.” The term “wishbone” first appeared a century or so later.
Statistically, about one in every thousand eggs has a double yolk. So, if you regularly crack open and cook eggs, there’s a chance you’ll come across one at some point. For the superstitious, an egg with two yolks is widely considered a sign of impending good luck. It’s not known where or when this superstition emerged, but the reasoning behind it is clear to see. Eggs have long been associated with life, rebirth, and potential, making a double yolk a natural candidate for a symbol of abundance, prosperity, and good luck. Double yolks are sometimes regarded as a sign of an upcoming marriage, or that a woman will soon become pregnant with twins.
The superstitious tradition of blowing out candles on birthday cakes has surprisingly ancient origins. Some historians believe it goes as far back as the ancient Greeks, who may have made cakes adorned with lit candles to honor Artemis, the goddess of the hunt and moon. This, in turn, was adopted by the Romans, who helped spread the tradition.
In modern Europe, the ritual of celebrating birthdays with a cake and candles — as we do today — has been around since at least the 18th century. One of the first documented accounts comes from the 1746 birthday party of Count Ludwig Von Zinzendorf, a German bishop, who had a massive cake covered in candles. At this point, in Germany at least, the act of extinguishing the candle flames was seen as a way to carry desires up to the gods — not dissimilar to how we blow out candles and make a wish today.
The tradition of eating a dozen grapes on New Year’s Eve comes from Spain, and while the origins are still debated, it dates back to at least the 1880s. According to some historians, the Spanish bourgeoisie decided to imitate the French New Year’s celebration of drinking champagne by skipping the middleman and going straight for the grapes. Others suggest the tradition began as a shrewd marketing tactic by grape growers who had a surplus harvest to unload in the early 1900s.
Either way, the ritual caught on: By eating one grape at each of midnight’s 12 clock chimes, you are destined for a lucky year, with each grape representing one of the 12 forthcoming months. The custom soon spread throughout Latin America, in countries as diverse as Cuba, Mexico, Puerto Rico, Argentina, and Peru. Some Latino populations in the U.S. have also maintained the grape-eating superstition.
Think back to a favorite dish from childhood — one that appeared at family gatherings, holiday feasts, or Sunday dinners. Maybe it was a casserole or a dessert, or a special family recipe that had been handed down from one generation to the next. Yet somehow, you haven’t tasted it in years.
Food reflects the time in which it’s made. Advances in refrigeration, the rise of convenience foods, changing ideas about nutrition, and evolving home cooking habits have gradually pushed many once-popular recipes into obscurity. The six dishes that follow were all considered perfectly respectable fare in their day. Today, however, most home cooks would hesitate before serving them — a reminder that even the most beloved recipes can fade as culinary traditions evolve.
Salmon mousse, often served in a fish-shaped mold, represented the height of 20th-century entertaining. Recipes of this type appeared in American cookbooks such as theBetter Homes Recipe Book(1926) and The Silver Palate Cookbook (1982). The dish typically combined salmon, mayonnaise or heavy cream, seasonings, and gelatin before being chilled in a decorative mold.
For decades, molded foods were considered stylish because they looked impressive and could be prepared ahead of time for guests. (The refrigerator helped make these dishes practical for the modern hostess.) By the late 20th century, however, savory gelatin dishes became associated with an earlier era of entertaining. While some retro cooks have revived them, salmon mousse is no longer a common sight at family gatherings.
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Calf’s brains were once a respected delicacy rather than an unusual curiosity. Recipes for preparing brains appeared in classic cookbooks such as Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking (1961), where organ meats were treated as valuable ingredients that could be transformed into refined dishes with sauces, butter, herbs, and seasonings.
The popularity of brains reflected a time when cooks used nearly every part of an animal and considered offal an important part of good household cooking. As meat became more commonly sold in convenient cuts and attitudes toward organ meats changed, dishes like calf’s brains with brown butter largely vanished. Today, the texture, preparation, and unfamiliar main ingredient make it a recipe few modern cooks would attempt.
Savory aspics were once a symbol of careful cooking and formal dining. Recipes for egg, chicken, veal, and similar gelatin-based dishes appeared throughout the 19th and 20th centuries in cookbooks such asFannie Fox’s Cook Book (1923). These recipes required preparing clear gelatin, arranging ingredients attractively, and creating a finished dish that was as decorative as it was edible.
Aspic was popular because it turned ordinary ingredients into something that looked elaborate and sophisticated. It was especially suited to formal meals where presentation mattered as much as flavor. Modern cooks, however, rarely have the time or interest required for clarifying gelatin and carefully arranging food inside a translucent mold. While savory aspics have made something of a comeback in foodie circles, they mostly represent a once-fashionable dish that has faded away.
Steamed suet puddings were a cornerstone of 17th-century British household cooking. In the United States, they appeared in 18th- and 19th-century cookbooks includingHousekeeping in Old Virginia(1879). Varieties such as plum or fig suet pudding combined flour, dried fruit, spices, and suet — a firm animal fat — before being slowly steamed or boiled for several hours until dense and rich.
These puddings were popular because they were filling, economical, and well suited to households that relied on preserved foods during colder months. The long cooking time and use of suet were once ordinary parts of domestic life, but modern desserts have moved toward lighter textures, quicker preparation, and more familiar fats. Today, a steamed suet pudding is more likely to be made as a historic novelty than as a regular family dessert.
Pigeon soup is one of the oldest known soups, with a version appearing on a Babylonian clay tablet dating to around 1750 BCE. The dish made its way to the United States with early settlers and remained a familiar recipe through the late 19th and early 20th centuries, appearing in cookbooks such asHow To Cook: The Housekeeper’s Friend (1902). At the time, wild pigeon and squab were commonly served in homes, hotels, and restaurants, and the soup was typically made by simmering whole birds with onions, celery, herbs, and broth.
Pigeon soup fell out of favor by the mid-20th century. The extinction of the passenger pigeon in 1914, the widespread availability of inexpensive chicken, and changing tastes all contributed to its decline. Today, few Americans would consider making soup from whole pigeons, but squab — a young pigeon that has never flown — is considered an expensive delicacy.
One of the most famous examples of historical imitation cuisine is mock turtle soup, which appeared in many 18th- and 19th-century cookbooks. True turtle soup was considered a luxury dish, but because turtle was expensive and difficult to obtain, cooks developed a substitute using calf’s head and other ingredients to recreate the rich texture and flavor associated with turtle meat. The dish became so popular that it even inspired the Mock Turtle character inAlice’s Adventures in Wonderland(1865), a sign of how familiar the recipe was to Victorian-era readers.
Mock turtle soup remained a dinner party staple for generations because it represented ingenuity and refinement. It was the kind of elaborate dish served at formal dinners and special occasions where cooks demonstrated their skill through lengthy preparation. Today, the recipe has all but disappeared because few home cooks are interested in preparing calf’s head, extracting gelatinous textures, and spending hours creating a soup designed to imitate a food that is itself rarely eaten.
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5 Toxic Foods People Used To Eat
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AuthorTimothy Ott
July 22, 2026
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From our modern vantage point, the culinary options of bygone cultures are sometimes difficult to comprehend. It seems that hungry people gobbled down anything they could get their hands on, including dormice (rodents), beaver tails, and fish bladder jam.
But while some of the choices seem unusual in hindsight, we can at least grasp their nutritional value. Other foods, however, were just downright dangerous to the human digestive system, and certainly wouldn’t have been on the menu had the consumer been aware of the consequences. Here are five toxic foods that people unwittingly used to eat.
Offering a rich source of vitamins, protein, and fatty acids, seafood is generally considered among the healthiest cuisine to eat — unless, of course, the specimens being consumed contain sky-high concentrations of heavy metals. Such was the case with the Atlantic cod and harp seals that comprised the meals of Stone Age settlers in northern Norway’s Varanger Peninsula around 5000 to 1800 BCE.
According to a recent study, cod bones from the settlement contained levels of cadmium up to 22 times higher than contemporary recommended limits, while seal bones showed similar dangerously elevated levels of lead. While it might seem strange that wildlife came with the risk of carcinogens in an era well before industrialization, the study authors suggest this was the result of climate change. It’s possible the thaw from the last ice age (between about 120,000 and 11,500 years ago) produced rising sea levels that carried soil containing the potent minerals into the water.
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It’s well known that the ancient Romans enjoyed their wine, but it’s possible a component of the winemaking process fueled ill health in a manner that went beyond the typical hangover. The Romans made a sweet, syrupy substance called defrutum, which was prepared by boiling unfermented grape juice. This syrup was used as a preservative for wine and fruit, as well as in sauces for dishes of pork, veal, and lentils, as described in the famed Roman cookbook De Re Coquinaria.
The problem was in the sweetener’s preparation: Ancient scholars including Cato and Pliny the Elder called for the syrup to be boiled in a lead-lined pot, inevitably resulting in the syrup’s absorption of lead. Although the hazards of lead poisoning were known to the Romans, it apparently never occurred to these great minds that they were endangering the public with their instructions.
Nowadays, a typical Easter meal might include a ham and a sampling of the chocolate left by the Easter Bunny, but for Christians in medieval England, the holiday was incomplete without the serving of the tansy. The dish was named for its primary ingredient, the yellow-flowered tansy plant, which was mixed with herbs and a hearty helping of eggs to produce what was essentially a large, sweet omelet.
Coming on the heels of Lent, the tansy not only provided a welcome change from the strict diet of lentils and fish consumed over the previous 40 days, but also was said to provide relief from the gas-inducing Lenten meals. Despite its purported medicinal qualities, the plant is actually mildly toxic, its pyrrolizidine alkaloids dangerous to humans in high doses. Although the poison didn’t hinder the long-standing popularity of the tansy on dinner tables, people are generally dissuaded from eating the plant today.
You could highlight an array of foods in Victorian England that would fail to pass muster under any food safety laws, from the lead chromate found in mustard to the arsenic compounds used to color confectionery. However, given its ubiquity in households of the era, the most egregious example may well be bread.
Seeking to create thick loaves of an appealing white hue, Victorian bakers mixed in such ingredients as ground-up bones, chalk, and plaster of Paris. Another common additive was alum, an aluminum-based compound that inhibited digestion and contributed to the malnutrition rampant among the poorer population. Although the dangers of adulterated edibles were known among the more educated members of the public, there was little stopping the food producers and distributors who ignored these health risks in favor of profits.
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Rhubarb Leaves
Known for its reddish stalk and tart flavor, rhubarb in the hands of a capable chef can be used to create delicious pies, sauces, and jams. That is, the stalks can be turned into such kitchen delights — the thick green leaves are chock-full of toxic oxalic acid and therefore not meant for ingestion. Unfortunately, this fact was not well known a century ago, as rhubarb leaves were recommended as a source of vegetation during the food shortages of World War I.
Consumed in small but regular doses, the leaves inhibit the beneficial effects of calcium and trigger the buildup of calcium oxalate, leading to kidney stones. While a human would normally have to eat something like 6 pounds of the stuff to experience the more acute effects (including vomiting, diarrhea, and kidney failure), there was at least one reported case of oxalic acid poisoning during the rhubarb leaf’s brief run as a lettuce substitute.
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What Grocery Stores Used To Look Like
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AuthorTimothy Ott
July 16, 2026
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Since most of us walk into a grocery store with our minds fixated on the items needed to fill up the fridge and pantry, it’s rare that we take the time to marvel at the wonders of modern food shopping. Whether it’s a small neighborhood mart, a chain supermarket, or a gargantuan superstore, today’s grocery stores offer a dizzying range of brands for any given product, allowing discerning shoppers to make a choice based on price, ingredients, or even packaging. All necessary (and unnecessary items) can be wheeled in a cart to a checkout line, where a friendly employee will happily tabulate the items and accept various forms of payment. There are also self-checkout stations, where you can scan your items yourself and be on your way even faster.
Of course, such a process would have been completely alien to early humans who relied on hunting and gathering their food. And it likely would be fairly shocking even to the people accustomed to earlier forms of food shopping. Here’s a look at what grocery stores were like before the rise of Publix, Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s, and the other popular stores we frequent today.
According to Michael Ruhlman’s book Grocery: The Buying and Selling of Food in America, the earliest grocery depots in the U.S. were the country stores that surfaced in the 17th century. Along with offering a limited supply of culinary staples such as sugar, flour, and molasses, these markets provided a smorgasbord of other necessities of colonial America, including hardware, soap, dishes, pots, saddles, harnesses, shoes, and medicine. By the early 19th century, these stores — originally constructed from logs and mud — were largely replaced by newer frame buildings, which contained cellars that were large enough to house casks of whale oil and also cool enough to store eggs, butter, and cheese.
By the middle of the 19th century, the general store was a common sight across the small towns of the expanding United States. Similar to the country store, general stores stocked goods that both satiated hunger and catered to other crucial needs of paying customers. Food items included coffee beans, spices, honey, oatmeal, and dried beans, many of which were kept in barrels and required measuring the desired amount on (often inaccurate) scales. The stores also offered nonedible wares, including cloth, buttons, undergarments, hats, lamps, rifles, and ammunition.
Normally featuring at least one large display window, these stores were typically packed with goods piled high on shelves and tables amid the boxes and barrels stuffed into available spaces. A front counter displayed smaller items as well as such contraptions as a coffee grinder, scales, and the cash register. As general stores typically doubled as community centers, they were usually fitted with a stove to warm inhabitants during cold-weather months and often featured chairs for those who planned to stay and chat.
Even so, general stores were neither the most comfortable nor the most sanitary places. Customers often dragged in dirt and animal waste from the unpaved roads outside, while cast-iron stoves could produce a layer of soot over the displayed wares.
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Although the term "grocery" referred to a tavern or a saloon through much of America's early history, it came to signify the emporiums that were appearing in more densely populated urban centers by the late 19th century.
These grocery stores typically carried around 200 products, and occupied 500 to 600 square feet of floor space. As with general stores, these shops featured items piled high on shelves, with clerks reaching for everything presented to them on a list and continuing to measure out both liquid and solid goods from barrels.
Although most proprietors were willing to offer a line of credit, a precursor to today’s credit cards, unlike today they provided limited choices by stocking only one type of each product. Also unlike most modern grocery stores, these early shops largely sold dry goods, meaning customers typically needed to make separate trips to a butcher, bakery, and produce peddler to round out the full array of dining needs.
The grocery model began to change when the Great Atlantic & Pacific Tea Company, owners of the A&P grocery chain, opened the first of its "economy stores" in 1912. Along with eliminating the credit lines and free delivery offered by independent retailers, A&P stores became known for offering popular brands such as Eight O'Clock Coffee.
The Tennessee-based Piggly Wiggly chain introduced additional innovations to the model with the opening of its first store in 1916. Most groundbreaking was its procedure of "self service." While goods still lined the lone aisle that snaked through the store, they were now within reach of customers who picked out the price-marked items themselves instead of delegating the responsibility to a clerk. The customers then placed the item in a wood basket — also a novel feature — before bringing everything to a checkout counter.
The streamlined processes resulted in lower costs for customers, and in turn produced an explosion in sales for retailers. The number of grocery chain stores increased from 24,000 to around 200,000 between 1914 and 1930, with the biggest, A&P, accounting for 16,000 of those outlets.
Although the 1920s saw the rise of "combination stores" that provided a wider range of meats, produce, and dairy products under one roof, the first true supermarket arrived with the opening of New York City's King Kullen in 1930.
A former employee of the Kroger chain stores, Matt Cullen decided to launch his new enterprise in a slightly more remote section of Jamaica, Queens. The location allowed for cheaper real estate, which meant that Cullen could open a larger store and provide space for the machines that were transforming American lives: automobiles.
The first King Kullen covered 6,000 square feet and offered 10 times the amount of food products as most existing markets, much of which was sold out of packing crates. It was soon surpassed by New Jersey's Big Bear, which featured a 15,000-square-foot grocery surrounded by areas leased to vendors selling tobacco, cosmetics, and auto parts.
Although other features of the contemporary shopping experience had yet to be invented — shopping carts arrived in the late 1930s, the barcode system in the 1970s — the blueprint for the modern grocery store was in place, with supermarkets eventually expanding to stock 50,000 items, and colossal chains swelling to a footprint of more than 200,000 square feet.
Nowadays, as we casually stroll down the block-length aisles of superstores beneath towering shelves of colorful boxes, examine the fine print on packages in the organic section, or nibble on the free samples of cheese and dumplings, we can spare a thought for the evolution of this essential part of everyday life.
When we say we’re buying eggs at the grocery store or having eggs for breakfast, we’re almost always talking about one specific kind: chicken eggs. The average American eats more than 270 chicken eggs each year, making them one of the most common foods in the modern diet. They’re so familiar that it’s easy to forget they represent just one option.
Chickens aren’t the only birds that lay edible eggs. Ducks, geese, quail, turkeys, and even ostriches produce eggs that people eat regularly in parts of the world, albeit on a much smaller scale. So why do chickens dominate the global egg market?
For most of human history, people weren’t especially selective about where their eggs came from. Ancient Romans consumed eggs from ducks, geese, partridges, pheasants, and even peacocks, while coastal communities around the world harvested eggs from nesting seabirds such as gulls, puffins, murres, and terns. If an egg was nutritious, accessible, and safe to collect, it usually ended up on the menu.
That diversity hasn’t entirely disappeared. Duck eggs remain popular throughout much of Asia, particularly in Chinese and Vietnamese cuisine, where they are valued for their richer flavor and larger yolks. Quail eggs appear in dishes across Europe, Latin America, and East Asia, while goose eggs are still enjoyed seasonally in parts of Northern and Eastern Europe.
For thousands of years, people generally ate whatever eggs were locally available, but the rise of the chicken gradually changed that equation. And, compared with almost every other domesticated bird, chickens have an unusually favorable combination of traits for large-scale egg production.
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Humans first domesticated chickens at least 3,500 years ago from wild red junglefowl in Southeast Asia. Many researchers believe those junglefowl were initially attracted to early rice and millet fields, where spilled grain and insects created an easy food source near human settlements. Over time, that close association evolved into domestication. Archaeological evidence suggests chickens spread westward through trade routes into India, the Middle East, Europe, and eventually Africa, long before reaching the Americas with European explorers.
Selective breeding transformed the species dramatically. Wild junglefowl typically lay only around 10 to 15 eggs per year during a short breeding season, primarily in spring. But over centuries, farmers consistently favored birds that laid eggs more frequently, matured earlier, and tolerated living near humans. The result was a gradual but dramatic increase in productivity.
By the early 20th century, advances in genetics, nutrition, and animal husbandry accelerated that process even further. Annual egg production per hen in the United States rose dramatically over the following decades as farmers bred birds specifically for productivity and efficiency. Other domesticated birds never received the same level of investment or specialization for egg production, leaving chickens with an enormous head start before industrial farming even began.
Modern laying hens are extraordinarily productive animals, with commercial breeds commonly producing around 280 to 320 eggs per year. By comparison, geese typically lay only around 30 to 50 eggs annually and turkeys generally produce between 70 and 100 eggs a year. Ducks come closest to competing with chickens in productivity, but even they usually require more feed, more water, and more space to maintain consistent laying rates.
Chicken eggs also occupy a useful middle ground in size. Quail eggs are so small that it takes four or five to equal a single chicken egg, while goose eggs are often two to three times larger and less practical for everyday cooking and baking.
Meanwhile, chickens are relatively inexpensive to raise. They adapt well to a wide range of climates, require less space and feed than larger birds, and mature quickly, with many hens beginning to lay at around 5 months of age. From a farmer’s perspective, chickens deliver an unusually high number of eggs for relatively modest inputs — a combination that few other domesticated birds can match.
By the early 20th century, the chicken had become the dominant commercial egg-laying bird across much of the industrialized world. The rise of supermarkets and large-scale food distribution only reinforced that advantage. Retailers favored products that could be graded, packaged, shipped long distances, and sold with consistent expectations about size, appearance, and shelf life. Chicken eggs were particularly well suited to that system.
Recipes standardized around chicken eggs as well. Cookbooks, commercial bakeries, and food manufacturers all assumed a particular egg size and a predictable balance of yolk and white. Other eggs could certainly be substituted, but they often required adjustments that made them less convenient for large-scale production and recipes.
Alternative eggs never disappeared. Duck eggs remain popular for baking, quail eggs appear in cuisines around the world, and goose eggs are still enjoyed seasonally in some regions. But for everyday breakfasts, omelets, and baking projects, chicken eggs became the default, so much so that they’re practically synonymous with eating “eggs” today.
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When Did We Start Putting Ice in Drinks?
Credit: Bettmann via Getty Images
AuthorKristina Wright
July 9, 2026
Love it?75
Few things are as refreshing as an ice-cold drink on a hot day. Indeed, ice is an essential part of the beverage industry today, with the global ice maker market valued at more than $5 billion. In the United States alone, the average person consumes nearly 400 pounds of ice per year.
Despite its popularity, most of us have probably never thought about how ice-cold drinks evolved into an everyday necessity. This simple pleasure has a long and interesting history shaped by ancient ingenuity, global trade, and evolving technology. From emperors importing ice from distant mountains to entrepreneurs revolutionizing its distribution, the journey of the ice in our drinks is a story of innovation that dates back to the first human civilizations.
Long before refrigerators and freezers, ancient civilizations found ingenious ways to keep drinks cool. The earliest recorded instance of ice storage dates back to the reign of Shulgi, the king of Ur in Mesopotamia from 2094 to 2046 BCE. Shulgi named the 13th year of his reign “Building of the royal icehouse/cold-house” (years were often named after a significant event), suggesting the construction of an icehouse during that period.
In China, the practice of harvesting and storing ice dates back to at least 1100 BCE. During the Zhou dynasty (1046 to 256 BCE), the royal court established a specialized department responsible for collecting natural ice blocks each winter and storing them in icehouses for use in the warmer months. This stored ice was used to cool food and beverages, including wine, and was also used in medical treatments.
Over time, ice collection became an organized practice, with officials overseeing its storage and distribution. Around 400 BCE, the Persians took preservation a step further by constructingyakchals — massive, domed icehouses made of heat-resistant mud brick. These structures allowed them to store ice year-round, even in the arid desert climate. By carefully directing water into shallow pools that froze overnight, they amassed ice supplies that could later be used to cool drinks or create early versions of frozen treats.
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Around the world, chilled beverages were a luxury enjoyed by the wealthy — one that did not become widely accessible for centuries. Around 300 to 400 CE, the Romans imported massive blocks of ice from the Alps, transporting them over long distances to cool drinks and prepare chilled delicacies. This symbol of extravagance was primarily reserved for elite members of society, including Emperor Nero, who was known to be fond of ice-cold refreshments. He ordered ice and snow to be brought down from the mountains and mixed with fruit juices and honey, an early prototype of sorbet.
During the Heian period in Japan (794 to 1185 CE), aristocrats preserved natural ice in underground icehouses known as himuro, allowing them to store and use it during the hot summer months. Historical texts such as the The Pillow Book mention the consumption of ice in the imperial court, emphasizing its exclusivity among the noble class. The government even maintained official icehouses, and records from the period suggest that ice was carefully rationed and distributed among the elite. Unlike in Europe, where ice was primarily used for cooling drinks, in Japan, it was also consumed directly in the form of finely shaved ice, sometimes drizzled with natural sweeteners.
During the European Renaissance, the use of ice in beverages and food was particularly popular in Italy and France. In Italy, ice was harvested from the Alps and transported to cities, where it was stored in underground cellars or specially built icehouses known as neviere. These structures, often insulated with straw or sawdust, allowed ice to be preserved for extended periods. Wealthy households and royal courts used this stored ice to chill drinks, enhancing the dining experience. Records from the 16th century indicate that Italians used ice to cool wines and other beverages, a practice that became increasingly fashionable among the aristocracy.
By the 17th century, the development of ice storage facilities had expanded beyond the nobility, with vendors in Italian cities selling ice or chilled water to customers during the summer months. This period also saw the refinement of frozen desserts, with early recipes for flavored ices and sorbets appearing in Italy and later spreading to France. But the primary function of ice remained its role in cooling beverages, a practice that continued to evolve with advancements in ice harvesting and transportation.
The “Ice King” Helped Make Ice Accessible in the U.S.
For most of history, ice was difficult to come by, making chilled drinks a rare luxury. That changed in the early 19th century when a Boston businessman named Frederic Tudor saw an opportunity to monetize ice production. Dubbed the "Ice King," Tudor began harvesting ice from frozen ponds on his father’s New England farm, packing it in sawdust and shipping it to warm climates such as the Southern states and the Caribbean islands. His business took off and the modern commercial ice trade was born.
At first, ice was primarily used in bars and hotels catering to the social elite. Cocktails such as the mint julep and sherry cobbler became wildly popular in the United States, served over crushed or shaved ice. The sight of frost-covered glasses became a symbol of sophistication and modernity. By the late 19th century, thanks to improved ice-harvesting techniques and the rise of commercial production, ice became more affordable and accessible in the U.S. Then in the first half of the 20th century, home refrigerators allowed more and more families to store ice, making it possible for iced drinks to become a staple at American dinner tables.
In 1776, the newly declared independent United States didn’t have a national cuisine. In fact, it barely had a national identity. A farmer in Massachusetts, a merchant in Philadelphia, and a rice planter in South Carolina might all consider themselves Americans, but they were unlikely to eat the exact same foods.
What they did share was a diet shaped by a remarkable mix of influences. Indigenous peoples introduced colonists to crops that thrived in North America. European settlers brought livestock, cooking techniques, and recipes from their homelands. Enslaved Africans contributed ingredients, agricultural knowledge, and culinary traditions that became foundational to Southern cooking. And trade routes connected the colonies to the Caribbean, Europe, and beyond, bringing sugar, spices, and other coveted goods.
The foods Americans ate in 1776 varied enormously from place to place and group to group, but many of the ingredients and traditions that would later define “American” cooking were already simmering the year the country was born.
The foods available to Americans in 1776 reflected nearly two centuries of cultural exchange. European colonists arrived with familiar ideas about what constituted a proper meal: bread, beer, meat, dairy products, and puddings. But adapting those traditions to North America required new ingredients and new techniques.
Perhaps no ingredient was more important than corn. Indigenous communities taught colonists how to cultivate the crop, which became a staple throughout much of the colonies. Cornmeal appeared in dishes such as hasty pudding — a thick porridge similar to polenta — and johnnycakes, simple griddle cakes that were popular from New England to the South.
Other Indigenous crops, including beans and squash, also became common ingredients. Together with corn, these foods helped sustain colonists and gradually worked their way into everyday cooking.
Meanwhile, enslaved Africans brought knowledge of ingredients that would leave a lasting mark on American foodways. In the South, cooks incorporated crops such as okra into soups and stews. Caribbean trade introduced sugar, molasses, rum, and spices, helping shape flavors that are still associated with American cuisine today.
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Most Americans in 1776 ate far less fresh meat than modern Americans do. Instead, preservation was essential. Salted pork, salted beef, and dried or salted fish provided reliable sources of protein throughout the year.
For many households, one of the most important dishes was pottage — a hearty stew that simmered for hours over the hearth. A pot might contain whatever ingredients were available: vegetables, grains, beans, and bits of meat or fish. Because ingredients could be added as supplies allowed, pottage was economical, filling, and adaptable.
Regional differences were significant. In New England, fish played a major role thanks to the region’s abundant coastline and thriving fisheries. Salt cod was both a staple food and an important export. Coastal residents also ate shellfish, including oysters and lobsters. Lobster was so plentiful that it was often considered food for poorer households rather than the luxury it is today.
Elsewhere, wild game frequently appeared on the table. Deer, rabbits, squirrels, waterfowl, and even passenger pigeons — once among the most abundant birds in North America — could be hunted for food. Wealthier Americans sometimes enjoyed more elaborate dishes, including turtle soup, which became fashionable in some cities and taverns.
If there was one food that connected nearly every table in 1776, it was bread. In wheat-growing regions of the mid-Atlantic and South, families baked loaves similar to those eaten in Europe. In New England, however, wheat was harder to grow, so many households relied on “rye-and-Indian” bread, a dense loaf made from rye flour and cornmeal. Some loaves weighed several pounds and were intended to last for days.
Many meals were accompanied by beans, which stored well through the winter. In some regions, slow-cooked bean dishes became household staples, providing an inexpensive source of calories and protein.
Modern diners often imagine colonial food as bland, but cooks in 1776 had access to a surprisingly broad range of seasonings. Black pepper was widely used, along with herbs such as marjoram and savory. Nutmeg and mace appeared in both savory and sweet dishes. Imported spices were expensive, but they were common enough to find their way into many cookbooks and household recipes.
Some seasonings that seem unusual today were entirely ordinary at the time. Rosewater, introduced to Europe centuries earlier through cultural exchanges with the Middle East, was a popular baking ingredient. Colonial cooks used it much the way modern bakers use vanilla extract, adding it to cakes, pies, and stewed fruit.
Lemon juice and lemon peel also appeared frequently in recipes, such as one heavily seasoned preparation for venison favored by Martha Washington. And nearly every dish carried a flavor that modern kitchens rarely produce: wood smoke. Since most cooking took place over open hearths, smoke subtly flavored everything from breads to stews.
Dessert in 1776 was often less sugary than modern Americans might expect, but it could still be elaborate. Pies were common, especially when seasonal fruits such as apples were available. Puddings — a broad category that included everything from boiled grain dishes to rich desserts — appeared regularly on colonial tables. One favorite was syllabub, a frothy mixture of cream and alcohol that was often served at celebrations in special glasses.
Wealthier households sometimes prepared what was known as great cake, a predecessor to modern fruitcake. These dense cakes were packed with dried fruit, sugar, spices, and alcohol, which helped preserve them for long periods. Special occasions called for particularly extravagant versions that used dozens of eggs and pounds of butter.
Even as Americans fought for independence, they maintained a fondness for sweets whenever ingredients were available. Sugar, molasses, dried fruit, and imported spices transformed simple ingredients into festive treats for holidays, elections, weddings, and other celebrations.
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