Handkerchiefs were once considered a status symbol.

  • Women waving handkerchiefs, 1882
Women waving handkerchiefs, 1882
Credit: Bettmann via Getty Images

When was the last time you touched a real, cloth handkerchief? Before disposable tissues became ubiquitous, these pieces of cloth dried our tears, wiped our sweat, and kept our noses clean. For a time, they even did something no ordinary Kleenex could ever do: signal elite social status.

Among the European aristocracy in the 16th and 17th centuries, especially in France and England, handkerchiefs were meant for display, whether in a pocket, a hand, or as part of an elaborate social ritual. These were no ordinary hankies; they were made with intricate lacework and fine embroidery. Wealthy Europeans posed for portraits with their hankies, bequeathed them in wills, and included them in dowries. Women in Tudor England gave fancy hankies to men, who would wear them in their hats. Lost and stolen handkerchiefs made the news. A distinctive, precious handkerchief is even central to the plot of Shakespeare’s Othello, written around 1603.The popularity of handkerchiefs spread to the general public throughout the 18th century, especially as snuff became more popular. In noble circles, bolder colors became fashionable to hide the stains, and eventually fans started to overtake hankies as the fashionable handheld accessories. Although still ornately decorated, handkerchiefs were kept in sleeves, pockets, or necklines after that.

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